A superb 2.5 km ridge traverse that connects Punte Budden, Becca di Montandaynè, Piccolo Paradiso, and Gran Paradiso. A super integrale including Herbetet is also possible, starting from Rifugio Vittorio Sella, though this is made more difficult by the removal of Rifugio Sberna in 2022.
From the Rifugio Chabod, ascend to the Colle di Bonney (3587 m).
From the Colle di Bonney, stay on the Valsavarenche side, passing by the Punte Budden (3683 m) (which can be avoided by traversing ledges). Descend over small steps to reach the Finestra di Tsasset (3633 m).
Follow the North Ridge of Becca di Montandaynè, staying as close to the ridge as possible. Along this ridge, you’ll encounter several towers of moderately solid rock. While this section appears easy, it requires both time and focus to navigate the towers, some of which necessitate rappels.
Upon reaching the snow cap of Becca di Montandaynè (3838 m), descend about 100 meters along the snowy southwest ridge to a small col. Here, either rappel down a chimney of reddish rock on the left, though it is often in poor condition or two rappels on the Valsavarenche side, down to a steep snow traverse, leading to the Colle di Montandaynè (3723 m).
From the col, follow the easy snow ridge to the summit of the first tower (Punta Vaccarone, 3868 m), where you can often remove your crampons.
Bypassing some towers and climbing others (typically on the Cogne side), with a few equipped rappels, reach the central summit (Punta Farrar, 3921 m), followed by the southern summit (Punta Frassy, 3923 m). The rock is generally solid, and if it gets too chossy you're probably off route.
From the summit, descend via snow and then easy rocks to the Colle del Piccolo Paradiso (3877 m – ~3 hours from the Colle di Bonney). Careful of large cornices on the Cogne side. Climb to the ridge, which becomes steeper, bypassing a prominent rocky spire (c. 3975 m) on the Cogne side with easy climbing.
From here, follow the ridge carefully, to the summit of Gran Paradiso (4061 m).
Descend by the normal route.
From the Rifugio Chabod, ascend to the Colle di Bonney (3587 m).
From the Colle di Bonney, stay on the Valsavarenche side, passing by the Punte Budden (3683 m) (which can be avoided by traversing ledges). Descend over small steps to reach the Finestra di Tsasset (3633 m).
Follow the North Ridge of Becca di Montandaynè, staying as close to the ridge as possible. Along this ridge, you’ll encounter several towers of moderately solid rock. While this section appears easy, it requires both time and focus to navigate the towers, some of which necessitate rappels.
Upon reaching the snow cap of Becca di Montandaynè (3838 m), descend about 100 meters along the snowy southwest ridge to a small col. Here, either rappel down a chimney of reddish rock on the left, though it is often in poor condition or two rappels on the Valsavarenche side, down to a steep snow traverse, leading to the Colle di Montandaynè (3723 m).
From the col, follow the easy snow ridge to the summit of the first tower (Punta Vaccarone, 3868 m), where you can often remove your crampons.
Bypassing some towers and climbing others (typically on the Cogne side), with a few equipped rappels, reach the central summit (Punta Farrar, 3921 m), followed by the southern summit (Punta Frassy, 3923 m). The rock is generally solid, and if it gets too chossy you're probably off route.
From the summit, descend via snow and then easy rocks to the Colle del Piccolo Paradiso (3877 m – ~3 hours from the Colle di Bonney). Careful of large cornices on the Cogne side. Climb to the ridge, which becomes steeper, bypassing a prominent rocky spire (c. 3975 m) on the Cogne side with easy climbing.
From here, follow the ridge carefully, to the summit of Gran Paradiso (4061 m).
Descend by the normal route.
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