This route is the second half of the integral traverse from Colle Bonney. Two friends (sizes 2/3) are recommended.
From Rifugio Chabod, follow the path towards the Passage de Gran Neyron. After about 10 minutes, turn right in the direction of Becca di Montandaynè (trail 5).
Once on the glacier, aim for the Colle di Montandaynè via ice slopes (400 m, max 45°). If the lower slopes are in poor condition (late-season ice is possible), you can pass on the right (snow lasts later in the season). After passing the bergschrund on the left, ascend steeper slopes to reach Colle di Montandaynè (3723 m – 3 to 3.5 hours from the hut).
Follow the easy snow ridge to the summit of the first tower (Punta Vaccarone, 3868 m), where you can often remove your crampons.
Bypassing some towers and climbing others (typically on the Cogne side), with a few equipped rappels, you will reach the central summit (Punta Farrar, 3921 m), followed by the southern summit (Punta Frassy, 3923 m). The rock is generally solid, and if it gets chossy, you're probably off route.
From the summit, descend via snow and then easy rocks to the Colle del Piccolo Paradiso (3877 m). Careful of large cornices on the Cogne side. Climb to the ridge, which becomes steeper, bypassing a prominent rocky spire (c. 3975 m) on the Cogne side with easy climbing.
From here, follow the ridge carefully, to the summit of Gran Paradiso (4061 m).
The guidebook time is 4 hours from Colle di Montandaynè and 7-8.5 hours from Rifugio Chabod.
From Rifugio Chabod, follow the path towards the Passage de Gran Neyron. After about 10 minutes, turn right in the direction of Becca di Montandaynè (trail 5).
Once on the glacier, aim for the Colle di Montandaynè via ice slopes (400 m, max 45°). If the lower slopes are in poor condition (late-season ice is possible), you can pass on the right (snow lasts later in the season). After passing the bergschrund on the left, ascend steeper slopes to reach Colle di Montandaynè (3723 m – 3 to 3.5 hours from the hut).
Follow the easy snow ridge to the summit of the first tower (Punta Vaccarone, 3868 m), where you can often remove your crampons.
Bypassing some towers and climbing others (typically on the Cogne side), with a few equipped rappels, you will reach the central summit (Punta Farrar, 3921 m), followed by the southern summit (Punta Frassy, 3923 m). The rock is generally solid, and if it gets chossy, you're probably off route.
From the summit, descend via snow and then easy rocks to the Colle del Piccolo Paradiso (3877 m). Careful of large cornices on the Cogne side. Climb to the ridge, which becomes steeper, bypassing a prominent rocky spire (c. 3975 m) on the Cogne side with easy climbing.
From here, follow the ridge carefully, to the summit of Gran Paradiso (4061 m).
The guidebook time is 4 hours from Colle di Montandaynè and 7-8.5 hours from Rifugio Chabod.
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Route of Interest
Northwest Face - Bertolone Route
Grade: D ***
(Gran Paradiso)