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Rockfax Description
A striking route. Start part way up the ramp below some overlaps. Climb the steep crack to gain a disappointing horizontal break. Move right to a semi-rest below the upper crack. Big powerful moves up this on jams of various styles may lead to the top before your arms explode. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The obvious powerful crack line up the buttress is sustained and adequately protected.

Ticklists

North Wales Super Route E6's, North Wales Rock Graded List, Trad climbs for sport climbers, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, WideBoyz Crack School, Tom Randalls Classic Finger Cracks, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Wales Ticklist, Definitive *** Llanberis, Proper Cracks UK

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User Date Notes
dan gibson 22 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Tried this about 7 years ago going up the left hand crack then traversing right, failed miserably this way. Today went direct up the groove to base of crack as CC guide description and did it 1st go.
 
Show beta
βeta: Tried this about 7 years ago going up the left hand crack then traversing right, failed miserably this way. Today went direct up the groove to base of crack as CC guide description and did it 1st go.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
soph 21 Sep, 2019 Lead Had go working out start then lead with most of gear in.
with Ramon Marin, Tom Le Fanu
Had go working out start then lead with most of gear in.
with Ramon Marin, Tom Le Fanu
soph 21 Sep, 2019 Lead
with Tom Le Fanu
with Tom Le Fanu
GeoffG 27 Aug, 2019 TR
Hidden 26 Jul, 2019 Lead G/U
Adam Lincoln 2 Jul, 2019 Lead G/U Fell off first go getting arm caught round rope. Steady second go.
with Mick Lovatt
Fell off first go getting arm caught round rope. Steady second go.
with Mick Lovatt
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH u 23 Jun, 2019 Lead dnf Had 3 good goes ground up - got about two thirds of the way up level with the pocket. Pretty hard!
with Anna G, Henry Francis
Had 3 good goes ground up - got about two thirds of the way up level with the pocket. Pretty hard!
with Anna G, Henry Francis
dan gibson 22 May, 2019 Lead RP Tried this about 7 years ago going up the left hand crack then traversing right, failed miserably this way. Today went direct up the groove to base of crack as CC guide description and did it 1st go.
Tried this about 7 years ago going up the left hand crack then traversing right, failed miserably this way. Today went direct up the groove to base of crack as CC guide description and did it 1st go.
Mark Stevenson 22 May, 2019 Lead dog On Dan's gear.
with dan gibson, Katerina Petkov
On Dan's gear.
with dan gibson, Katerina Petkov
Dizz 13 May, 2019 2nd dog Great route and lead. Possible headpoint project. Greasy. Hard without a warm up and a sore shoulder!
with Ste mac
Great route and lead. Possible headpoint project. Greasy. Hard without a warm up and a sore shoulder!
with Ste mac
peter.herd 23 Apr, 2019 Lead G/U Team mission with Brad. Failed first go pulling into the crack, got up by the skin of my teeth next go. Really pleased as climbed well despite being desperately pumped.
with Brad Reed
Team mission with Brad. Failed first go pulling into the crack, got up by the skin of my teeth next go. Really pleased as climbed well despite being desperately pumped.
with Brad Reed
Hidden 15 Jul, 2018 Lead RP
Dan Arkle u 14 Jul, 2018 Lead β Got a lot a beta and one stuck wire from Eszter.
Got a lot a beta and one stuck wire from Eszter.
ferdia 12 Jun, 2018 Lead dnf Fairly abortive
with Ben Silvestre
Fairly abortive
with Ben Silvestre
Hidden 7 May, 2018 2nd
Hidden 7 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden ? May, 2018 Lead G/U
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Hidden 18 Jul, 2017 Lead G/U
Hidden 17 Jul, 2017 TR dog
soph 7 Aug, 2016 Lead dog Special style?! started ground up, after a few falls we gave up and dogged start, then onsighted top. Fell off on last go of day as left cam in way of handhold - genius! Would undoubtedly have been more efficient but much less fun to TR it...
with maddy.c
Special style?! started ground up, after a few falls we gave up and dogged start, then onsighted top. Fell off on last go of day as left cam in way of handhold - genius! Would undoubtedly have been more efficient but much less fun to TR it...
with maddy.c
waydan 19 Jun, 2016 TR
Jack Geldard ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Natalie Berry - UKC u 4 Jul, 2015 Lead RP Great line, first E6. Worked on top rope twice and lead first go in same day. Pumpy!
with Lucy Creamer
Great line, first E6. Worked on top rope twice and lead first go in same day. Pumpy!
with Lucy Creamer
James Beaumont 19 Jun, 2015 TR dog belayed Louis while he was projecting so obviously had to have a go!
with Louis
belayed Louis while he was projecting so obviously had to have a go!
with Louis
dominic lee 16 May, 2015 Lead 2nd go.
2nd go.
nathanlee 18 Apr, 2015 Lead G/U Stupid footslip robbed me on the os, gutting. But felt lovely second time up, perfect rock high up!
with Tom Livingstone, goli
Stupid footslip robbed me on the os, gutting. But felt lovely second time up, perfect rock high up!
with Tom Livingstone, goli
Cailean Harker 15 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Well happy to onsight this. PUMPY!
with Mike Goldthorp
Well happy to onsight this. PUMPY!
with Mike Goldthorp
Cailean Harker 15 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Mike Goldthorp
with Mike Goldthorp
Justin T 24 Jul, 2014 Lead dnf A long shot for an onsight but not an inspiring performance.
A long shot for an onsight but not an inspiring performance.
wi11 19 Jun, 2014 2nd dog
Tom Livingstone 14 Jun, 2014 Lead G/U Ground up, second go. Pumped out mid-way through the upper crack on the o/s, got it clean next go. It ain't over 'til it's over!
with Jack Lawledge
Ground up, second go. Pumped out mid-way through the upper crack on the o/s, got it clean next go. It ain't over 'til it's over!
with Jack Lawledge
Hidden 14 Jun, 2014 Lead β
mileshill540 ??, 2014 2nd
Mike Goldthorp 22 Jul, 2013 Lead dnf Bloody 'ard! No stopper moves but just relentless. Fell off at the base of the crack (pumped), came down for another ground-up burn and came off halfway up the crack (very pumped). Come back fitter for another bash.
with AJM
Bloody 'ard! No stopper moves but just relentless. Fell off at the base of the crack (pumped), came down for another ground-up burn and came off halfway up the crack (very pumped). Come back fitter for another bash.
with AJM
redjerry 15 Jul, 2013 TR RP 7b?, 3 try's
7b?, 3 try's
Glyn ? Jul, 2013 Lead RP
Glyn 9 Jun, 2013 Lead Ground up With the gear in after team onsight attempt. Luke went up first then I pulled ropes and took over from his high point in the crack and got to the top with a rest. We both lead it clean next go. Fantastic climbing. Stunning evening in warm golden sunshine. My first E6 but didn't really feel so given the style!
Ground up With the gear in after team onsight attempt. Luke went up first then I pulled ropes and took over from his high point in the crack and got to the top with a rest. We both lead it clean next go. Fantastic climbing. Stunning evening in warm golden sunshine. My first E6 but didn't really feel so given the style!
Luke Brooks u 9 Jun, 2013 Lead
with Glyn Hudson
with Glyn Hudson
LRob ??, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Jul, 2011 2nd
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 30 May, 2010 Lead
Ed Booth 15 May, 2010 Lead dnf Tried to climb it on George's kit, Fell off at bottom of main crack, goin for the jug! Looked hard above, cool route. a bit sharp!
with Al Mason, George Ulrich
Tried to climb it on George's kit, Fell off at bottom of main crack, goin for the jug! Looked hard above, cool route. a bit sharp!
with Al Mason, George Ulrich
farmus21 19 Mar, 2010 TR Belayed Sam on the headpoint and took the oppurtunity to embarass myself on TR... Great climbing; big moves between solid fingerlocks on poor feet. Awesome.
with hamer89
Belayed Sam on the headpoint and took the oppurtunity to embarass myself on TR... Great climbing; big moves between solid fingerlocks on poor feet. Awesome.
with hamer89
hamer89 19 Mar, 2010 Lead RP Ace line, bomber gear just pumpy!
Ace line, bomber gear just pumpy!
soph 1 Jan, 2010 2nd dog
with Dan McManus
with Dan McManus
Toby Dunn 24 Jun, 2009 Lead ground up, second go. pulled ropes and relead from floor after 1 fall.
with Andy Reeve
ground up, second go. pulled ropes and relead from floor after 1 fall.
with Andy Reeve
Hidden 30 May, 2009 Lead O/S
Si Witcher 7 Jun, 2008 Lead RP fell off 6ft below top on o/s attempt, and led clean next go.
with Phil
fell off 6ft below top on o/s attempt, and led clean next go.
with Phil
Si Witcher 7 Jun, 2008 Lead rpt Fell off 6ft below the top on the on-sight attempt - led it clean 2nd go
Fell off 6ft below the top on the on-sight attempt - led it clean 2nd go
Tom Briggs u 25 Jun, 2005 Lead β Did after Ed. Power endurance. Not one to mess around on.
with Ed Brown
Did after Ed. Power endurance. Not one to mess around on.
with Ed Brown
craig matheson ??, 1999 Lead RP
with Keith Phizacklea
with Keith Phizacklea
dr evil 12 May, 1998 Lead G/U
with Noel Craine
with Noel Craine
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Voting
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Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 6
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Ground Up
Dogged
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Rainbow of Recalcitrance

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Rainbow Slab Area)