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Birds: Beware of, and avoid, angry Herring gulls nesting on common exit to Airegin, Ostrichism etc. nest can easily be checked from the crag top (28 May 2016). May be a one-off nest, maybe not, please be considerate to the nesting birds and also be aware bird spotters regularly frequent the area.

Nest was there in 2019 as well, and another one at the top of the Aiguille. Both avoidable with care.

30m. A myopic approach provides an enjoyable climb up the slab between Straight No Chaser and Oleo with protection in each climb.
Provides probably the best climbing on the slab but very easy to stray offroute, idea was to use no holds in either route to the sides, obviously an eliminate

Bruce Strachan & Grant Campbell 16/Mar/1999.


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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Route of Interest
The Smuggler's Waltz

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Smuggler's Cliff)

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