Rockfax Description
A long, committing and challenging climb that incorporates plenty of varied climbing. High in the grade. Start next to a pinnacle at the base of the face.
1) 5a, 15m. Move up from the right side of the pinnacle to a white groove on the right. Follow this to a bulge and pull over to reach a stance and belay next to a holly tree.
2) 5b, 14m. Climb the corner and move left to another. Follow this boldly to a slab that is climbed to a belay under a clean-cut crack in the wall on the right.
3) 5a, 27m. Jam the crack to a ledge, then continue up the cracks and narrow chimney above to a stance and belay.
4) 5a, 25m. Head left and pull into the base of a corner/groove. Climb it and the short walls above to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An intricate line with sustained, delicate climbing in the first 2 pitches. Pitch 3 is of a different nature offering technical crack/chimney climbing.
Caff's Cool E1s List , Borrowdale FRCC Guide 'Top Fives' , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , Lakeland E1 Classics
User | Date | Notes | ||
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tim whitaker | 2 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Great route, but P1/2 includes some serious climbing above barely adequate gear, definitely E2! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route, but P1/2 includes some serious climbing above barely adequate gear, definitely E2! |
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Dave Rumney | 1 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Holly tree at the top of pitch 1 (as described here) is wobbly and shouldn't be trusted as a belay, probably best to continue. Also this persistence with using the "white groove" reference is confusing - it's just the right hand groove above the pinnacle. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Holly tree at the top of pitch 1 (as described here) is wobbly and shouldn't be trusted as a belay, probably best to continue. Also this persistence with using the "white groove" reference is confusing - it's just the right hand groove above the pinnacle. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gimmer Crag)