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50m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The dominating central crack-line. Steep, strenuous and intimidating and with some loose rock on pitch two. Start 5m right of Tudor Rose on a boulder pile.
1) 5a, 20m. From the top of the boulders, move out left across a slab to the base of a broken crack-line. Follow the crack-line, past a niche, and move right to a thread belay on a ledge on the slab.
2) 5b, 30m. Climb up left to the fault-line and gain the wall passing a bulge on the left. Follow a steep groove direct, stepping left at its top. Pass a big wedged-in block to gain the exit corner. A couple of large cams are useful on this pitch. © Rockfax

FA. Pat Littlejohn, K.Goodman 05/Aug/1972.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Ultimate E2 ticklist

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User Date Notes
feilx 11 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route, steep sustained and very satisfying. Was a bit loose (don't think it’s seen much traffic recently) think we cleaned it up a bit though. Climbed around the big scary block at the top no worries.
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βeta: Excellent route, steep sustained and very satisfying. Was a bit loose (don't think it’s seen much traffic recently) think we cleaned it up a bit though. Climbed around the big scary block at the top no worries.
geoffgo21 13 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: this has obviously got a lot loser since I did it '88 although care was needed. So much for routes cleaning up with traffic! Not a great route but hard work.
βeta?
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βeta: this has obviously got a lot loser since I did it '88 although care was needed. So much for routes cleaning up with traffic! Not a great route but hard work.
matt perks 26 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I’ve been climbing at Guillemot Ledge today. The block at the top of Oceanid is in a very dangerous state. We tried to trundle it but it is held in at the back by a lip of rock. Only about 1 cm of the block is preventing it from rocking over the edge. We have made it even looser by trying to remove it. It is possible to climb Tudor Rose and Facedancing without too much danger as long as care is taken to keep the ropes running away from the block when climbing past it. The routes that use the first pitch of Oceanid (Warlord etc.) are unaffected. The second pitch of Oceanid is currently a really bad idea. Even though it may be possible to climb round the block, ropes are bound to run past it. The block sticks out very obviously and can be seen from the base of the routes. It’s probably best not to belay under it. Next time I’m down at Swanage I’ll try to get it with a crowbar – unless anyone thinks that’s a really bad idea. There will be some other loose stuff to come down from around it but the corner basically looked sound and the other routes that use that finish should still be fine. I also think Oceanid will be fine but haven’t done it so I’m not certain which holds are crucial. If anyone has any comments reply to my post on ukclimbing
βeta?
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βeta: I’ve been climbing at Guillemot Ledge today. The block at the top of Oceanid is in a very dangerous state. We tried to trundle it but it is held in at the back by a lip of rock. Only about 1 cm of the block is preventing it from rocking over the edge. We have made it even looser by trying to remove it. It is possible to climb Tudor Rose and Facedancing without too much danger as long as care is taken to keep the ropes running away from the block when climbing past it. The routes that use the first pitch of Oceanid (Warlord etc.) are unaffected. The second pitch of Oceanid is currently a really bad idea. Even though it may be possible to climb round the block, ropes are bound to run past it. The block sticks out very obviously and can be seen from the base of the routes. It’s probably best not to belay under it. Next time I’m down at Swanage I’ll try to get it with a crowbar – unless anyone thinks that’s a really bad idea. There will be some other loose stuff to come down from around it but the corner basically looked sound and the other routes that use that finish should still be fine. I also think Oceanid will be fine but haven’t done it so I’m not certain which holds are crucial. If anyone has any comments reply to my post on ukclimbing
Paz 27 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Yeah, I would say the finish is worrying but probably fine. Just don't belay in the line of fire.
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βeta: Yeah, I would say the finish is worrying but probably fine. Just don't belay in the line of fire.
Mark Stevenson 20 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: WARNING LOOSE ROCK. My partner manage to pull off one of the 'funny blocks' (60cm cube )on the second pitch taking a large fall but luckily escaping with bruises. I knocked off a further 50kg block when retrieving the gear on abseil but the route has further LOOSE ROCK. There is a possible further, larger loose block (500kg+). Route needs to be checked on abseil prior to any more ascents.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: WARNING LOOSE ROCK. My partner manage to pull off one of the 'funny blocks' (60cm cube )on the second pitch taking a large fall but luckily escaping with bruises. I knocked off a further 50kg block when retrieving the gear on abseil but the route has further LOOSE ROCK. There is a possible further, larger loose block (500kg+). Route needs to be checked on abseil prior to any more ascents.

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 22
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Tudor Rose

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Guillemot Ledge)