72m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An unusual low-level traverse that provides a long and interesting tour of some of the very best rock and positions on this section of cliff. Well protected and easily combined with the excellent pitch of White Dwarf to give a better ending. Start as for Elysium.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb the large crack on Elysium to a ledge, then move right along a twin horizontal break until a step down gains a ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 17m. Follow the breaks rightwards to a spike belay at the edge of the wall, on Acapulco.
3) 5b, 10m. Climb the flake-crack on the right to the fault-line - strenuous - then belay on the right in the fault-line.
4) 4c, 20m. Ascend flakes on the right, then move leftwards steeply to a roof. Cross this and continue up the exit corner. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley, Jon Biddle 09/Aug/1986

Ticklists

Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, SW Climbs - Swanage

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UserDateNotes
beanfingers 19 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: best E2 traverse ever - full of positive holds and complex hand crossing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: best E2 traverse ever - full of positive holds and complex hand crossing
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
brian watson 7 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S P2 & 4
P2 & 4
Mike Weatherill 7 Oct, 2018 AltLd
mishabruml 30 Sep, 2018 Lead Good adventure. Led 2 and 4. 2 was pretty tough I pumped off on the crux. 4 was steep and loose, with a premium Dorset topout to be truly savoured
with Callum Nelson
Good adventure. Led 2 and 4. 2 was pretty tough I pumped off on the crux. 4 was steep and loose, with a premium Dorset topout to be truly savoured
with Callum Nelson
Hidden 25 Sep, 2018 AltLd dog
davkeo 25 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
mjeffery 23 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
with LucaC
with LucaC
LucaC 23 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead P2,4
Lead P2,4
roryferris 9 Jul, 2016 2nd
Thumbspragger 9 Jul, 2016 Lead dnf 1st pitch and ran out of time. Will be back!
1st pitch and ran out of time. Will be back!
stevoland 17 Jul, 2015 2nd β
AlexD 9 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 9 Aug, 2014 AltLd rpt
with AlexD
with AlexD
ian d f 2 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P2&4. Spent 4 - 5 hours on the route dripping with sweat in the mid day sun. Looked at finishing up White Dwarf, but didn't have the energy.
with Paul K
Led P2&4. Spent 4 - 5 hours on the route dripping with sweat in the mid day sun. Looked at finishing up White Dwarf, but didn't have the energy.
with Paul K
Graham Westbrook 2 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
Helen Gibson 18 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S brilliant, especially with the rough sea added a bit more spice! Led p.2 and 4.
with Alice
brilliant, especially with the rough sea added a bit more spice! Led p.2 and 4.
with Alice
Hidden 18 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S
tonevert 16 Feb, 2013 2nd
with Kevin Faux
with Kevin Faux
Kevster 16 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S Excellent fun!
Excellent fun!
ellis 1 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P1 and 4 after backing off Singing Winds.
with Tom Holdsworth, Tom Bridgeland
Led P1 and 4 after backing off Singing Winds.
with Tom Holdsworth, Tom Bridgeland
givemetea 15 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S P1, P3 - me; P2, P4 - Ann
with Ann Chong
P1, P3 - me; P2, P4 - Ann
with Ann Chong
Haydn Jones 13 May, 2012 AltLd O/S pep lead p 1+2 in one pitch then i did 3+4 in one pitch, got a nut stuck oh well crag booty for the lucky person that gets it out!
with pep
pep lead p 1+2 in one pitch then i did 3+4 in one pitch, got a nut stuck oh well crag booty for the lucky person that gets it out!
with pep
GarethHall 12 May, 2012 AltLd O/S Led 2nd and 4th pitches. Great route - would be even better if the last pitch wasn't so loose.
Led 2nd and 4th pitches. Great route - would be even better if the last pitch wasn't so loose.
paddygoodwinlondon 12 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Gareth Hall
with Gareth Hall
Hidden 31 Mar, 2012 Lead dnf
Monkey_Alan 31 Mar, 2012 2nd dnf We both struggled (and rested on gear) on P1, so abbed off at the first belay, totally pumped.
We both struggled (and rested on gear) on P1, so abbed off at the first belay, totally pumped.
pezzerrr 6 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Sep, 2011 AltLd rpt
wi11 19 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S P2&4
with Ed Ratcliff
P2&4
with Ed Ratcliff
feilx 12 Feb, 2011 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 12 Feb, 2011 AltLd
with feilx
with feilx
Marti999 21 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S did white dwarf to finish a 3 star Combination.
did white dwarf to finish a 3 star Combination.
Ed Babs 25 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S P1 and 3 - quality
P1 and 3 - quality
clipskipper 25 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S 3 excellent pitches at 5b. Pumpy and not for the faint-hearted. Final pitch loose under the roof. Well worth the trip
with Ed Babington
3 excellent pitches at 5b. Pumpy and not for the faint-hearted. Final pitch loose under the roof. Well worth the trip
with Ed Babington
duncan 22 Jul, 2009 AltLd
dan gibson 19 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
with jacquie robinson
Hidden 15 Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S
scott titt ??, 2009 -
beanfingers 19 Mar, 2006 AltLd O/S led 2nd and 4th pitches rad
with felix
led 2nd and 4th pitches rad
with felix
Hidden ??, 2006 -
feilx ??, 2005 -
Nigel Coe 5 Nov, 2004 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
with Tim Dunsby
The Jazz Butcher ??, 1996 AltLd O/S
Nigel Coe 7 Feb, 1988 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
with Tim Dunsby
3 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 14
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set