Rockfax Description
An unusual traverse that provides a long and interesting tour of some of the very best rock and positions on this section of cliff. Well protected and easily combined with the excellent pitch of White Dwarf to give a better ending. Start as for Elysium.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb the large crack on Elysium to a ledge, then move right along a twin horizontal break until a step down gains a ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 17m. Follow the breaks rightwards to a spike belay at the edge of the wall on Acapulco.
3) 5b, 10m. Climb the flake-crack on the right to the faultline - strenuous - then belay on the right at the faultline.
4) 4c, 20m. Ascend flakes on the right, then move leftwards steeply to a roof. Cross this and continue up the exit corner. A better way of finishing is via White Dwarf, the variation upper pitch of The Planet. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley, Jon Biddle 09/Aug/1986.

Ticklists

Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , SW Climbs - Swanage , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth

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