UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions apply between the Dancing Ledge and Valkyrie Buttress Direct, and also east of The Razor's Edge.

30m.

Rockfax Description
A direct corner and crack climb starting as for Tensor II. Follow a corner past a spike and peg to pass a big roof on the right. A chimney allows access to the faultline and a huge ledge (possible belay). Climb the continuation crack to the top. A helmet jam has been used to great effect by more than one team on this route. © Rockfax

FA. A.Webster, D.Hadlum 27/Mar/1967.

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User Date Notes
Spencer Noble 23 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The large block mentioned in the last comment came loose and fell to the boulders. Rock scar now bearing unstable blocks. Second half of the route dubious and unstable in places. Much care needed. I escaped left on to the VS rather then sketch up the choss. Sure it'll firm up a bit in time but a risk for people below at present.
βeta?
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βeta: The large block mentioned in the last comment came loose and fell to the boulders. Rock scar now bearing unstable blocks. Second half of the route dubious and unstable in places. Much care needed. I escaped left on to the VS rather then sketch up the choss. Sure it'll firm up a bit in time but a risk for people below at present.
NicolasPolo 17 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Big block the size of a car very wobbly by the top of the climb. Almost took it off with me seconding the climb, but no luck trying dislodging it from above.
βeta?
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βeta: Big block the size of a car very wobbly by the top of the climb. Almost took it off with me seconding the climb, but no luck trying dislodging it from above.
John Gillott 16 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: You can traverse onto the face to the right, do a high rockover onto the left foot and reach back into the crack with your left hand above the roof. About English 5b. Very unsporting of course.
βeta?
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βeta: You can traverse onto the face to the right, do a high rockover onto the left foot and reach back into the crack with your left hand above the roof. About English 5b. Very unsporting of course.
Jon Greengrass 22 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The crux is certainly daunting, there certainly aint no holds to help past the crack, but a full body squirm up into the chimney does the trick. The top out is rubbish and I had a wobbler on the upper choss.
βeta?
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βeta: The crux is certainly daunting, there certainly aint no holds to help past the crack, but a full body squirm up into the chimney does the trick. The top out is rubbish and I had a wobbler on the upper choss.
Different Steve 4 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I found the crux daunting but very straightforward with the use of a cunning helmet jam (more a helmet lean)at the bottom of the chimney -perhaps this is one of those \'trick move\' routes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I found the crux daunting but very straightforward with the use of a cunning helmet jam (more a helmet lean)at the bottom of the chimney -perhaps this is one of those 'trick move' routes.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 59
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 48
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lightning Wall

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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