UKC

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the very best VSs at Swanage. Both technical and sustained, but furnished with good protection. Start at a raised ledge below a corner next to a massive boulder.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb the corner until level with an overhang on the left. Traverse beneath this and pull up the wall on good holds to a ledge and huge flake belay.
2) 5a, 15m. Stand on the flake, then either climb with difficulty direct to the next wide break, or at about the same difficulty, step left and move up to the break. Climb past the overhang above on its left, and finish up the corner above. © Rockfax

FA. B.Snell, W.Lyons 08/Dec/1973.

Ticklists

100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Swanage A-Z , West Country Climbs , Orange Spot Swanage , SW Climbs - Swanage , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Memorable Climbs , South West Classic VS's , Dorset , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Dorset Good Trad D-E2

Feedback

User Date Notes
Chriscan\'tclimb 6 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Shit.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Shit.
Kiddie68 9 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Don\'t climb past the traverse left! It\'s not up to the capping roof! (I was following chalk!)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't climb past the traverse left! It's not up to the capping roof! (I was following chalk!)
hp8g12 5 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The crux (P2) can be protected with a bombers cam in the pocket, although this will force you slightly left and up the blank wall.
Show beta
βeta: The crux (P2) can be protected with a bombers cam in the pocket, although this will force you slightly left and up the blank wall.
Iain Weymouth 16 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I thought the peg on P2 was ok-ish considering. I cowtailed it to reduce the leverage
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought the peg on P2 was ok-ish considering. I cowtailed it to reduce the leverage
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 18 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The peg on P2 is in pretty shocking condition and if it did snap it would be pretty bad news. As such, the route feels quite high in the grade (not least because that’s the only real protection at the crux).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The peg on P2 is in pretty shocking condition and if it did snap it would be pretty bad news. As such, the route feels quite high in the grade (not least because that’s the only real protection at the crux).
Jon Greengrass 22 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A nice well protected VS. A route to do again.
Show beta
βeta: A nice well protected VS. A route to do again.

Logged Ascents

957 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Guillemot Ledge

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 113 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 162
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 153
Votes cast 152
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Freda

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)

Loading Notifications...