UKC Logbook - 'Tensor II'

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the very best VSs at Swanage. Both technical and sustained, but furnished with good protection. Start at a raised ledge below a corner next to a massive boulder.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb the corner until level with an overhang on the left. Traverse beneath this and pull up the wall on good holds to a ledge and huge flake belay.
2) 5a, 15m. Stand on the flake, then either climb with difficulty direct to the next wide break, or at about the same difficulty, step left and move up to the break. Climb past the overhang above on its left, and finish up the corner above. © Rockfax

FA. B.Snell, W.Lyons 08/Dec/1973.

Ticklists

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User	Date		Notes
SmellyEllie	24 Jun	Show βeta βeta: Fantastic climb although in the heat it felt like pulling on bars of soap at times. I lead p1 with the traverse, relatively chill with loads of gear and nice holds. Tom lead p2 where getting off the ledge is definitely the crux. Some people mentioned the block not being that secure for a belay but that thing has 0 wobble 10/10 would be belay off again. Well worth the 3*.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Fantastic climb although in the heat it felt like pulling on bars of soap at times. I lead p1 with the traverse, relatively chill with loads of gear and nice holds. Tom lead p2 where getting off the ledge is definitely the crux. Some people mentioned the block not being that secure for a belay but that thing has 0 wobble 10/10 would be belay off again. Well worth the 3*.
GLupol	11 Oct, 2022	Show βeta βeta: I don't know why one would say this is a safe route. Less about the peg and more about the damn "flake". For one, it's not a flake, but a massive flake like boulder that easily wobbles if pushed. And this is your only actual anchor point for the belay.
Show beta βeta: I don't know why one would say this is a safe route. Less about the peg and more about the damn "flake". For one, it's not a flake, but a massive flake like boulder that easily wobbles if pushed. And this is your only actual anchor point for the belay.
Chriscan'tclimb	6 Nov, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Shit.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Shit.
Kiddie68	9 May, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Don\'t climb past the traverse left! It\'s not up to the capping roof! (I was following chalk!)	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Don't climb past the traverse left! It's not up to the capping roof! (I was following chalk!)
hp8g12	5 Nov, 2020	Show βeta βeta: The crux (P2) can be protected with a bombers cam in the pocket, although this will force you slightly left and up the blank wall.
Show beta βeta: The crux (P2) can be protected with a bombers cam in the pocket, although this will force you slightly left and up the blank wall.
Iain Weymouth	16 Sep, 2020	Show βeta βeta: I thought the peg on P2 was ok-ish considering. I cowtailed it to reduce the leverage	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I thought the peg on P2 was ok-ish considering. I cowtailed it to reduce the leverage
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing	18 Aug, 2020	Show βeta βeta: The peg on P2 is in pretty shocking condition and if it did snap it would be pretty bad news. As such, the route feels quite high in the grade (not least because that’s the only real protection at the crux).	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The peg on P2 is in pretty shocking condition and if it did snap it would be pretty bad news. As such, the route feels quite high in the grade (not least because that’s the only real protection at the crux).
Jon Greengrass	22 Apr, 2005	Show βeta βeta: A nice well protected VS. A route to do again.
Show beta βeta: A nice well protected VS. A route to do again.