Rockfax Description
A sustained, varied climb and one of the best E1s at Swanage. Start under a prominent, smooth-sided corner.
1) 5a, 18m. Climb a corner to the roof, and swing right to beneath a smooth sided corner. Climb the fine corner to the mid-height break and belay on a ledge to the right.
2) 5b, 15m. Step right onto the wall and climb easily, but boldly up to the chert band and roof - old hidden peg. Arrange good gear and step left. Pull over the overhang and finish up the bold wall. © Rockfax
FA. Richard Crewe, P.Sharman 31/Mar/1974.
West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , Ultimate E1 ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Memorable Climbs , Cool Names , Dorset , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Iain Weymouth | 3 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Wonderful contrasting pitches. There's a wedged cam (not mine!) next to the decrepit peg at the P2 overlap. These two together plus the infamous high big nut should be plenty for the pull onto the wall. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Wonderful contrasting pitches. There's a wedged cam (not mine!) next to the decrepit peg at the P2 overlap. These two together plus the infamous high big nut should be plenty for the pull onto the wall. |
||||
GrahamD | 12 Dec, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: My favourite Swanage HVS. Pitch 1 in particular is a real gem. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: My favourite Swanage HVS. Pitch 1 in particular is a real gem. |
||||
Owen W-G | 3 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice one Tim - your comments made it into the new guide! An excellent route btw. Head right asap from the belay for a great finish | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Nice one Tim - your comments made it into the new guide! An excellent route btw. Head right asap from the belay for a great finish |
||||
ian bryant | 13 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: agreed, i went left and was totally gripped on a footless mantel! | ||
Show beta
βeta: agreed, i went left and was totally gripped on a footless mantel! |
||||
Different Steve | 13 Nov, 2001 |
Show βeta
βeta: Top pitch is fairly serious if you go left - Moves after the initial section are tricky and protected by poorish small wire(s). Not at all obvious which way to go. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Top pitch is fairly serious if you go left - Moves after the initial section are tricky and protected by poorish small wire(s). Not at all obvious which way to go. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)