Rockfax Description
A sustained, varied climb and one of the best E1s at Swanage. Start under a prominent, smooth-sided corner.
1) 5a, 18m. Climb a corner to the roof, and swing right to beneath a smooth sided corner. Climb the fine corner to the mid-height break and belay on a ledge to the right.
2) 5b, 15m. Step right onto the wall and climb easily, but boldly up to the chert band and roof - old hidden peg. Arrange good gear and step left. Pull over the overhang and finish up the bold wall. © Rockfax
FA. Richard Crewe, P.Sharman 31/Mar/1974.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Ultimate E1 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Memorable Climbs, Cool Names, Dorset, Dorset Routes that are worth doing
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Iain Weymouth | 3 Apr |
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βeta: Wonderful contrasting pitches. There's a wedged cam (not mine!) next to the decrepit peg at the P2 overlap. These two together plus the infamous high big nut should be plenty for the pull onto the wall. | ||
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βeta: Wonderful contrasting pitches. There's a wedged cam (not mine!) next to the decrepit peg at the P2 overlap. These two together plus the infamous high big nut should be plenty for the pull onto the wall. |
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| GrahamD | 12 Dec, 2005 |
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βeta: My favourite Swanage HVS. Pitch 1 in particular is a real gem. | βeta? | |
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βeta: My favourite Swanage HVS. Pitch 1 in particular is a real gem. |
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| Owen W-G | 3 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Nice one Tim - your comments made it into the new guide! An excellent route btw. Head right asap from the belay for a great finish | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nice one Tim - your comments made it into the new guide! An excellent route btw. Head right asap from the belay for a great finish |
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| ian bryant | 13 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: agreed, i went left and was totally gripped on a footless mantel! | βeta? | |
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βeta: agreed, i went left and was totally gripped on a footless mantel! |
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| Different Steve | 13 Nov, 2001 |
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βeta: Top pitch is fairly serious if you go left - Moves after the initial section are tricky and protected by poorish small wire(s). Not at all obvious which way to go. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Top pitch is fairly serious if you go left - Moves after the initial section are tricky and protected by poorish small wire(s). Not at all obvious which way to go. |
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Traverse of the Gods
Grade: E1 5b ***(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)