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33m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A sustained, varied climb and one of the best E1s at Swanage. Start under a prominent, smooth-sided corner.

1) 5a, 18m. Climb a corner to the roof, and swing right to beneath the smooth-sided corner. Climb the fine corner to the mid-height break and belay on a ledge to the right.
2) 5b, 15m. Step right onto the wall and climb easily, but boldly up to the chert band and roof - old hidden peg. Arrange good gear, then step left and climb the overhang to finish up the bold wall. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, P.Sharman 31/Mar/1974.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Ultimate E1 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Memorable Climbs, Cool Names, Dorset

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User Date Notes
GrahamD 12 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: My favourite Swanage HVS. Pitch 1 in particular is a real gem. 		βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My favourite Swanage HVS. Pitch 1 in particular is a real gem.
Owen W-G 3 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nice one Tim - your comments made it into the new guide! An excellent route btw. Head right asap from the belay for a great finish 		βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice one Tim - your comments made it into the new guide! An excellent route btw. Head right asap from the belay for a great finish
ian bryant 13 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: agreed, i went left and was totally gripped on a footless mantel! 		βeta?
Show beta
βeta: agreed, i went left and was totally gripped on a footless mantel!
Different Steve 13 Nov, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Top pitch is fairly serious if you go left - Moves after the initial section are tricky and protected by poorish small wire(s). Not at all obvious which way to go. 		βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top pitch is fairly serious if you go left - Moves after the initial section are tricky and protected by poorish small wire(s). Not at all obvious which way to go.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
LukeyG 5 Jul Lead In one pitch
with Chris_Tee
In one pitch
with Chris_Tee
Kevster 28 Jun Lead rpt
with Tony HECC
with Tony HECC
Jeromecooper 9 Jun AltLd rpt Warm up. Led pitch one. Always a pleasure.
with Kelly Evans
Warm up. Led pitch one. Always a pleasure.
with Kelly Evans
Hidden 20 May AltLd
TheCragStallion 17 Mar Lead O/S In one
with Fin
In one
with Fin
Hidden ?? -
dobby 200 27 Oct, 2019 AltLd O/S I led the amazing pitch 1. Jack led pitch 2, don't look at the peg because it might fall apart! He started at the far right end of the stance, straight up to the peg then continued pretty much straight, nowhere near 5b.
with Jack, Giles
I led the amazing pitch 1. Jack led pitch 2, don't look at the peg because it might fall apart! He started at the far right end of the stance, straight up to the peg then continued pretty much straight, nowhere near 5b.
with Jack, Giles
Jack Tugwell 27 Oct, 2019 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Sep, 2019 AltLd O/S
Simon Geary 1 Sep, 2019 Lead β First E1 lead, epic route!
with Chris Tee
First E1 lead, epic route!
with Chris Tee
Simon Allcock 23 Aug, 2019 AltLd dog Fantastic p2. Fell going right over the bulge. Got it 2nd go over the left.
with Wilki
Fantastic p2. Fell going right over the bulge. Got it 2nd go over the left.
with Wilki
Hidden 17 Aug, 2019 AltLd O/S
Intrepidsteve 9 Aug, 2019 -
PandaSUMC 3 Aug, 2019 AltLd O/S
with Rgledable
with Rgledable
Hidden 3 Aug, 2019 Lead dnf
Hidden 3 Aug, 2019 AltLd
Hidden 17 Jul, 2019 2nd
Hidden 17 Jul, 2019 Lead O/S
monsteratt 14 Jul, 2019 Lead O/S Nice route. Great layback corner on the first pitch. Not too hard except the sweat induced grease...
with Sam, Tom, Paul
Nice route. Great layback corner on the first pitch. Not too hard except the sweat induced grease...
with Sam, Tom, Paul
Hidden 13 Jul, 2019 AltLd O/S
simibrown 24 Jun, 2019 Lead
with Zac
with Zac
Paul Eckton 22 Jun, 2019 Lead O/S
with Matt Jenks
with Matt Jenks
ARiches 9 Jun, 2019 Lead O/S It’s all about p1
It’s all about p1
Hidden 9 Jun, 2019 2nd O/S
Hidden 6 Jun, 2019 AltLd O/S
Jimbob64 31 May, 2019 Lead O/S The hanging crack was stupendous. What a feature and what a route!
with garygecko
The hanging crack was stupendous. What a feature and what a route!
with garygecko
garygecko 31 May, 2019 2nd
with Jimbob64
with Jimbob64
fuzzysheep01 27 May, 2019 Lead O/S Absolutely superb. What a route.
with eduardo
Absolutely superb. What a route.
with eduardo
eduardo 27 May, 2019 2nd dog Read the top wall completely wrong
with fuzzysheep01
Read the top wall completely wrong
with fuzzysheep01
Chris_Tee 12 May, 2019 Lead O/S
Cheethamjd 4 May, 2019 2nd O/S
Hidden 19 Apr, 2019 AltLd
SteveHolmes 8 Apr, 2019 AltLd
with Dunx
with Dunx
Dunx 8 Apr, 2019 AltLd
with SteveHolmes
with SteveHolmes
MassivePunter 17 Mar, 2019 AltLd O/S
Alpinelegend69 ? Mar, 2019 -
with MassivePunter
with MassivePunter
Hidden 18 Nov, 2018 2nd rpt
Dominic Acland 3 Nov, 2018 Lead O/S Went adrift on second pitch, mis-led by old guidebook!
with timreynolds
Went adrift on second pitch, mis-led by old guidebook!
with timreynolds
timreynolds 3 Nov, 2018 2nd O/S
with Dominic Acland
with Dominic Acland
Mark Stevenson 16 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
with Tom Livingstone
with Tom Livingstone
Tom Livingstone 16 Oct, 2018 2nd rpt
with Mark Stevenson
with Mark Stevenson
Frank the Husky 26 Sep, 2018 -
with Fleuriot
with Fleuriot
paultaylor 26 Sep, 2018 AltLd rpt
with will moy
with will moy
Hidden 21 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
cbyers 16 Sep, 2018 Lead dnf Slipped off placing gear in the hanging crack high on P1 - turned out to be a good place for a first proper trad fall! Got back on a few times and eked out a couple of new high points, but was pretty pumped and eventually went back down
with Henry
Slipped off placing gear in the hanging crack high on P1 - turned out to be a good place for a first proper trad fall! Got back on a few times and eked out a couple of new high points, but was pretty pumped and eventually went back down
with Henry
193 14 Sep, 2018 2nd
with Keith Phiz
with Keith Phiz
Matt77 8 Sep, 2018 2nd
with Tom Riddelsdell
with Tom Riddelsdell
richfitz 15 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S P1
with Julian Duxfield
P1
with Julian Duxfield
nickmoulden 6 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S A bit dirty and dusty
with zoe bidula
A bit dirty and dusty
with zoe bidula
Bruise Apprentice 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S P1. The roof and corner crack above were very damp.
with poeter210
P1. The roof and corner crack above were very damp.
with poeter210
poeter210 9 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S p2
with Bruise Apprentice
p2
with Bruise Apprentice
Q.Estelles 3 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
hfotheri 19 May, 2018 AltLd Led pitch 1, which involved a lot of elvis! Cam below in the belay saved my head from smashing into the roof when my climbing partner wipped off the overhang on the second pitch!
with simon
Led pitch 1, which involved a lot of elvis! Cam below in the belay saved my head from smashing into the roof when my climbing partner wipped off the overhang on the second pitch!
with simon
Dangerous David 19 May, 2018 Lead O/S Lead both pitches, wow first pitch was amazing. Second pitch not so much.
Lead both pitches, wow first pitch was amazing. Second pitch not so much.
georgejl 12 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with RangerMcFreindly
with RangerMcFreindly
RangerMcFreindly 12 May, 2018 Lead β First E1! Had some help seeing George on it 2 weeks before watching him on the first pitch. I ran it in a single pitch was a great root but was wigging out on the finish!
with georgejl
First E1! Had some help seeing George on it 2 weeks before watching him on the first pitch. I ran it in a single pitch was a great root but was wigging out on the finish!
with georgejl
Hidden 29 Apr, 2018 2nd
Matt77 28 Apr, 2018 Lead rpt Both pitches. Always good.
with Shane
Both pitches. Always good.
with Shane
islandlynx 28 Apr, 2018 2nd rpt One of best at Swanage.
with Matt77
One of best at Swanage.
with Matt77
samparsons 19 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S
afterthesend 19 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S
Rob Houston ??, 2018 -
Rob Houston ??, 2018 -
Climber_Tim 20 Nov, 2017 -
gparn 19 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S
marcduhig 10 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
with pep
with pep
friendzone1234 16 Sep, 2017 Lead
with JimBee
with JimBee
JimBee 16 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S
with friendzone1234
with friendzone1234
Hidden 27 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
pguilloux 19 Aug, 2017 2nd rpt
with Sachi
with Sachi
jsmcfarland 19 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with pguilloux
with pguilloux
Luke90 27 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Elizabeth Allen
with Elizabeth Allen
Elizabeth Allen 27 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
with Luke90
with Luke90
Hidden 24 Jun, 2017 2nd rpt
Nikkiyoxall 10 Jun, 2017 2nd dog Had to rest on rope whilst battling with a very stuck but just below the pull up to the corner. Also took a slip on the second pitch...great climb though!
Had to rest on rope whilst battling with a very stuck but just below the pull up to the corner. Also took a slip on the second pitch...great climb though!
Katsmiff 10 Jun, 2017 AltLd Good gear. Soft E1. I lead the first pitch with the laybacking.
with Rafal Malczyk
Good gear. Soft E1. I lead the first pitch with the laybacking.
with Rafal Malczyk
DHHZ 10 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Nikki, James
with Nikki, James
Rafal Malczyk u 10 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Katsmiff
with Katsmiff
Douglas ? Jun, 2017 AltLd hung on rope to retrieve nut
with Doug Lindo
hung on rope to retrieve nut
with Doug Lindo
mikeyjbs 21 May, 2017 Lead rpt
with Idoia
with Idoia
meinecke 29 Apr, 2017 AltLd P2. Solid gear.
with Tristan.Stricker
P2. Solid gear.
with Tristan.Stricker
mutt 29 Apr, 2017 Lead
with sarah
with sarah
mutt 29 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S not nearly as hard as its reputation. Just a little sustained.
not nearly as hard as its reputation. Just a little sustained.
Tristan.Stricker 29 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S P1. Felt easy because the previous party left a nut on the crux.
with meinecke
P1. Felt easy because the previous party left a nut on the crux.
with meinecke
rosiehawker 14 Apr, 2017 AltLd I led pitch 2
I led pitch 2
DanielGyi 14 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Will Goldsmith
with Will Goldsmith
mikeski 14 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
Oliver Smaje 14 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with Beth
with Beth
Hidden 14 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 14 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
richsmithinbristol 8 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Pitch 2 supposedly the crux. Wish I had got pitch 1 which is much better.
Pitch 2 supposedly the crux. Wish I had got pitch 1 which is much better.
Carl 19 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S Led P2
with lukevf
Led P2
with lukevf
lukevf 19 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Carl
with Carl
Hidden ??, 2017 2nd O/S
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 AltLd O/S
Francois R 30 Oct, 2016 Lead In 1 pitch. Good route. The easiest E1 I have ever done.
with Jason
In 1 pitch. Good route. The easiest E1 I have ever done.
with Jason
dave o 21 Oct, 2016 AltLd
with James Richardson
with James Richardson
Horton 24 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead p1. First HVS/e1 onsight (depending on which book you look at). A bit pumped /scared at the top of the groove but nothing a head+shoulder break-jam didn't fix. Not as scary as it looks from the bottom
with Matt77
Lead p1. First HVS/e1 onsight (depending on which book you look at). A bit pumped /scared at the top of the groove but nothing a head+shoulder break-jam didn't fix. Not as scary as it looks from the bottom
with Matt77
Matt77 24 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S P2
with Alex Horton
P2
with Alex Horton
Neil McA u 24 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
with martin cooper
with martin cooper
Martin Cooper 24 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Led P1. Felt steep
with Neil
Led P1. Felt steep
with Neil
helkay 11 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Amazing first pitch, easy to protect key moves. Pitch 2 felt a bit bold and not as fun.
Amazing first pitch, easy to protect key moves. Pitch 2 felt a bit bold and not as fun.
LucaC 31 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S P2
with George
P2
with George
Pete_Frost 27 Aug, 2016 Lead dnf Down climbed from the crux as it was very damp in the cracks.
with Blake
Down climbed from the crux as it was very damp in the cracks.
with Blake
AJM 21 Aug, 2016 2nd rpt
with TonyB, Nick Russell, AllyBee
with TonyB, Nick Russell, AllyBee
Nick Russell 21 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Led as one pitch (with a 'variation' direct finish). Really enjoyed swinging into the corner on P1
with AllyBee, AJM
Led as one pitch (with a 'variation' direct finish). Really enjoyed swinging into the corner on P1
with AllyBee, AJM
Hidden 5 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Aug, 2016 2nd
Hidden ? Aug, 2016 Lead
superturbo 10 Jul, 2016 Lead
roryferris 3 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Thumbspragger
with Thumbspragger
Thumbspragger 3 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Led 1st pitch
with roryferris
Led 1st pitch
with roryferris
Denoir 18 Jun, 2016 AltLd
with nickdunn
with nickdunn
Hidden 7 May, 2016 Lead O/S
naylers 1 May, 2016 2nd
andycash 1 May, 2016 Lead rpt
with naylers
with naylers
robgixer 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Bernie L 25 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S Really nice first pitch!
with JHammond
Really nice first pitch!
with JHammond
Hidden 25 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S
Jeromecooper 25 Feb, 2016 Lead O/S Great route. Steady climbing just keep moving and don't hang around too long on the first pitch. Bomber gear thoughout. Rotten peg on pitch two but not needed as gear in the break is good.
with Alan
Great route. Steady climbing just keep moving and don't hang around too long on the first pitch. Bomber gear thoughout. Rotten peg on pitch two but not needed as gear in the break is good.
with Alan
bencoope 24 Feb, 2016 Lead O/S
climbomaniac 27 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S A lot of fun!
A lot of fun!
Tubs 12 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
with AJM
with AJM
AJM 12 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Led p1. Cracking pitch.
with Tubs
Led p1. Cracking pitch.
with Tubs
Hidden 17 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
petegunn 17 Aug, 2015 AltLd
with Davinamo
with Davinamo
Hidden 12 Aug, 2015 AltLd G/U
Hidden 7 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
bryan61 1 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with m meaney
with m meaney
Geoffers 29 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Tim
with Tim
jungle 11 Jul, 2015 2nd dog
with paulmccarthy
with paulmccarthy
thomb 11 Jul, 2015 AltLd
with Pete Scott
with Pete Scott
Pete Scott 11 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Led P1 (great!). Tom Finished up P2 of Toiler on the Sea
with thomb
Led P1 (great!). Tom Finished up P2 of Toiler on the Sea
with thomb
James1483 ? Jul, 2015 2nd
with Chris
with Chris
TomRiddelsdell 27 Jun, 2015 2nd β
with islandlynx
with islandlynx
islandlynx 27 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Linked as one. Great route. The corner looks hard from below but has very positive holds
with TomRiddelsdell
Linked as one. Great route. The corner looks hard from below but has very positive holds
with TomRiddelsdell
Hidden 27 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Jun, 2015 2nd
jon_gill1 14 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Me p1 and JR P2
with nick loc, ripper
Me p1 and JR P2
with nick loc, ripper
ripper 14 Jun, 2015 Lead
with locksbury
with locksbury
Steve954 6 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S Moving out from under the roof and up the corner is really hand work if you are not used to lay backs. Well happy to have done it.
with Paul Archer
Moving out from under the roof and up the corner is really hand work if you are not used to lay backs. Well happy to have done it.
with Paul Archer
felixizzy 24 May, 2015 AltLd O/S p1
with Gecko_Loco
p1
with Gecko_Loco
Flavio 9 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with martinlevya82
with martinlevya82
Tim_C7 3 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Luke Williams
with Luke Williams
London Luke 3 May, 2015 2nd O/S
with Tim_C7
with Tim_C7
brian watson 19 Apr, 2015 AltLd rpt
with Sophie Nunn
with Sophie Nunn
Sophie Nunn 19 Apr, 2015 AltLd rpt
with brian watson
with brian watson
Hidden 8 Feb, 2015 AltLd rpt
Hidden 31 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S
adam 24 31 Jan, 2015 AltLd Led the second pitch, have done the first one previously. Excellent route.
Led the second pitch, have done the first one previously. Excellent route.
duncan 28 Dec, 2014 Lead
with Dani Wolf
with Dani Wolf
Hidden 5 Nov, 2014 2nd
Cheese Monkey 5 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S
with Pete
with Pete
The_Boy_ODwyer 2 Oct, 2014 2nd
with mike lawrence?
with mike lawrence?
mike lawrence? u 2 Oct, 2014 Lead
with The_Boy_ODwyer
with The_Boy_ODwyer
jacobjlloyd 13 Sep, 2014 AltLd rpt
with Peach
with Peach
andycash 6 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
with Ash Sayers
with Ash Sayers
Ash Sayers 6 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
stevoland 29 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with JM
with JM
ian d f 13 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S led p1
with Paul K
led p1
with Paul K
Hidden 2 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Aug, 2014 2nd
Hidden 1 Aug, 2014 2nd
clipskipper 2 Jul, 2014 AltLd rpt Still a classic :-)
with Sonia Robins
Still a classic :-)
with Sonia Robins
Robin Woodward ? Jul, 2014 AltLd dog P1 was lovely climbing, all the holds there, nice exposure on second. Lead P.2 and tried to go too far left after the overhang before backing down and heading up a bit further right, but got over-pumped and had a slump. Sent OK after a rest however ripped a block off the arete where I'd slumped previously.
P1 was lovely climbing, all the holds there, nice exposure on second. Lead P.2 and tried to go too far left after the overhang before backing down and heading up a bit further right, but got over-pumped and had a slump. Sent OK after a rest however ripped a block off the arete where I'd slumped previously.
davidclare 21 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
with jon_ridley
with jon_ridley
jon_ridley 21 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with davidclare
with davidclare
mike mo 20 Jun, 2014 Lead
with Edd
with Edd
Monkey_Alan 19 Jun, 2014 AltLd dog Led P2. Slipped off removing a stubborn nut on P1.
with Lawrence Dudley
Led P2. Slipped off removing a stubborn nut on P1.
with Lawrence Dudley
funsized 31 May, 2014 2nd
with slowmotion
with slowmotion
mc fifi 30 May, 2014 Lead O/S Fantastic climb. intimidating from the bottom but solid holds and good gear. Linked the two pitches together and went up direct over overhang. Not as in guide book but still 5b. oh and 1st proper E1 lead :)
with funsized
Fantastic climb. intimidating from the bottom but solid holds and good gear. Linked the two pitches together and went up direct over overhang. Not as in guide book but still 5b. oh and 1st proper E1 lead :)
with funsized
treesrockice 25 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
Andrew Sloan 15 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S Led second pitch. Found the smooth sided corner on pitch 1 quite strenuous. Plenty of pro before having to commit to the overhang on 2nd pitch. Really nice route.
with Martin Haworth
Led second pitch. Found the smooth sided corner on pitch 1 quite strenuous. Plenty of pro before having to commit to the overhang on 2nd pitch. Really nice route.
with Martin Haworth
Martin Haworth u 15 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Sloan
with Andrew Sloan
CurlyStevo 11 Jan, 2014 AltLd Brilliant route. I lead pitch 1. I'm not sure which pitch is the crux. I find the 5b move on pitch 2 more like 5a and the gear is good for that move, there is a few 4c/5a moves above that where the gear is a little below you but not too bold. The bolder climbing to the top is much easier but the rock is a bit suspect. Pitch 1 I find quite sustained and the moves near the top of the crack I find fairly stiff 5a but this pitch is well protected throughout.
with clipskipper
Brilliant route. I lead pitch 1. I'm not sure which pitch is the crux. I find the 5b move on pitch 2 more like 5a and the gear is good for that move, there is a few 4c/5a moves above that where the gear is a little below you but not too bold. The bolder climbing to the top is much easier but the rock is a bit suspect. Pitch 1 I find quite sustained and the moves near the top of the crack I find fairly stiff 5a but this pitch is well protected throughout.
with clipskipper
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 -
sarpedon 29 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S Best trad route I've climbed in Swanage so far.
Best trad route I've climbed in Swanage so far.
Sophie Nunn 27 Jul, 2013 Lead rpt
with MartyJ
with MartyJ
Wevcore 27 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
with Luxulyan
with Luxulyan
Luxulyan 27 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Strung pitches together, went straight up not onto ledge.
with Kev Brown
Strung pitches together, went straight up not onto ledge.
with Kev Brown
crossdressingrodney 22 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Awesome. Bottom half is a brilliant tough HVS.
with AlexM
Awesome. Bottom half is a brilliant tough HVS.
with AlexM
Hidden 22 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Jun, 2013 Lead
Kirill 1 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with CurlyStevo
with CurlyStevo
CurlyStevo ? Jun, 2013 2nd
TommyA 11 May, 2013 2nd O/S
saxdonkey 11 May, 2013 2nd O/S
with tim.fairhall
with tim.fairhall
Hidden 11 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Stroppy 30 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P2. Good moves on the crux, found P1 a little more interesting though.
with RKirke
Led P2. Good moves on the crux, found P1 a little more interesting though.
with RKirke
RKirke 30 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Stroppy
with Stroppy
Monkey_Alan 21 Apr, 2013 AltLd rpt Led P2.
with Julian Prieto
Led P2.
with Julian Prieto
Julian Prieto 21 Apr, 2013 AltLd dog Led P1. Got pumped and took a fall on P1.
with Monkey_Alan
Led P1. Got pumped and took a fall on P1.
with Monkey_Alan
Hidden 20 Apr, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 5 Mar, 2013 2nd dnf
Hidden ??, 2013 Lead O/S
gem_stone12 ??, 2013 2nd
saxdonkey ??, 2013 2nd
ianto ??, 2013 -
ian caton ??, 2013 Lead O/S
with Abi Chard
with Abi Chard
mutt ??, 2013 Lead
Hidden 2 Dec, 2012 2nd
Justin T 2 Dec, 2012 Lead O/S Led in one pitch bit stiff at the top!
with Nick B
Led in one pitch bit stiff at the top!
with Nick B
ChrisBrooke u 14 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S Lead both pitches. P1 Amble up to the roof then get stuck in. There's perfect gear in it and plenty of opportunity to rest in balance to place it. Not as bold as it looks from below. P2. I went left, following the diagram (rather than the description) and found the rusty peg (did not bother clipping what's left of it). Exciting rock up on to the little ledge, then moved back right into the groove and climbed on good holds (poor gear) to the top. Lovely thrilling experience.
with Monika Inkpen, John Inkpen
Lead both pitches. P1 Amble up to the roof then get stuck in. There's perfect gear in it and plenty of opportunity to rest in balance to place it. Not as bold as it looks from below. P2. I went left, following the diagram (rather than the description) and found the rusty peg (did not bother clipping what's left of it). Exciting rock up on to the little ledge, then moved back right into the groove and climbed on good holds (poor gear) to the top. Lovely thrilling experience.
with Monika Inkpen, John Inkpen
tsyrett 12 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S
jcooper8 10 Sep, 2012 2nd
with Tom Livingstone
with Tom Livingstone
Tom Livingstone 10 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with jcooper8
with jcooper8
Chris Sansum 9 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S
with Kris suriyo
with Kris suriyo
nickdonohue ? Sep, 2012 Lead
with Frank ?, Ian Bryant
with Frank ?, Ian Bryant
Stuart Johnston 26 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P1
with Dave Cowell, Cat St. Claire
Led P1
with Dave Cowell, Cat St. Claire
Dizz 26 Aug, 2012 AltLd
with Hugh T
with Hugh T
adam 24 26 Aug, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 23 Aug, 2012 Lead rpt
pelvoux 4 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Lead the 2nd pitch but I may not have choose the right route. Tried diagonal left but got stuck at a roof sticking out with a large flat mantle on the left... and I went down. Started on the right of the belay ledge with a long running without gear, 2 small cams under a big block and up to the top on the right of this big block. I do not think this is the correct 2nd pitch route but the rockfax guide is a bit confusing.
with Chris Bull
Lead the 2nd pitch but I may not have choose the right route. Tried diagonal left but got stuck at a roof sticking out with a large flat mantle on the left... and I went down. Started on the right of the belay ledge with a long running without gear, 2 small cams under a big block and up to the top on the right of this big block. I do not think this is the correct 2nd pitch route but the rockfax guide is a bit confusing.
with Chris Bull
Hidden 3 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
Dave Mahon ? Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Followed P1 - wild! P2 was a push over.
with Brian Mead
Followed P1 - wild! P2 was a push over.
with Brian Mead
quiffhanger 3 Jun, 2012 Lead rpt
mc fifi 2 Jun, 2012 2nd O/S
funsized ? Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
with slowmotion
with slowmotion
Hidden 30 May, 2012 Lead dog
3 Names 17 May, 2012 2nd
with Ed Bulman
with Ed Bulman
paultaylor 16 May, 2012 AltLd O/S P2. Will be back to lead the first pitch. Awesome line.
with will moy
P2. Will be back to lead the first pitch. Awesome line.
with will moy
will moy 16 May, 2012 AltLd dog
with paul taylor
with paul taylor
quiffhanger 13 May, 2012 Lead O/S Very nice. On Jake's recommendation took a diagonal left line for the 2nd pitch up to a cool mantle onto a protruding triangular block.
Very nice. On Jake's recommendation took a diagonal left line for the 2nd pitch up to a cool mantle onto a protruding triangular block.
jacobjlloyd 12 May, 2012 Lead rpt
with Sophie
with Sophie
chris_B 21 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S Pitch 1 only: finished on 2nd pitch of August Angie in the hail/rain because I'd done it before and it was the quicker option.
with stuaart, louby
Pitch 1 only: finished on 2nd pitch of August Angie in the hail/rain because I'd done it before and it was the quicker option.
with stuaart, louby
louby 21 Apr, 2012 2nd
with stuaart, chris_B
with stuaart, chris_B
stuaart 21 Apr, 2012 2nd Chris led p1, then we escaped up right instead of p2 as it was raining / hailing.
with Louise Atkin, Chris Burn
Chris led p1, then we escaped up right instead of p2 as it was raining / hailing.
with Louise Atkin, Chris Burn
Kris suriyo 20 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Cherry Bedford 29 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S Led 1st :-)
Led 1st :-)
PAJames ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 AltLd
Dave89 3 Dec, 2011 AltLd O/S alan P1 Me Pitch 2. Fun little route. Got a little lost coming off belay at end of pitch one due to guidebook and picture description confusion. If you step off right then go upwards you'll find the hidden peg
with Alan100
alan P1 Me Pitch 2. Fun little route. Got a little lost coming off belay at end of pitch one due to guidebook and picture description confusion. If you step off right then go upwards you'll find the hidden peg
with Alan100
Alan100 3 Dec, 2011 AltLd Lead 1st
Lead 1st
Mark Warnett ? Dec, 2011 Lead O/S cmon this is not easy E1!!! very steep and strenuous first pitch. My second fainted on the ledge which was not ideal preparation for belaying me on the 2nd pitch.
cmon this is not easy E1!!! very steep and strenuous first pitch. My second fainted on the ledge which was not ideal preparation for belaying me on the 2nd pitch.
sparkass 26 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
with Gary Wood
with Gary Wood
pelvoux 8 Oct, 2011 Lead dog Hang on the gear, the rope below the roof. But very nice 1st pitch.
with Mario
Hang on the gear, the rope below the roof. But very nice 1st pitch.
with Mario
mikeyjbs 1 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
riddle 1 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S Strung both pitches together
with mikeyjbs
Strung both pitches together
with mikeyjbs
al99 25 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
with martinazando
with martinazando
martinazando 25 Sep, 2011 2nd Tried to lead the first pitch but had to back off. Strenuous corner and second pitch overhanging and difficult to read
with al99
Tried to lead the first pitch but had to back off. Strenuous corner and second pitch overhanging and difficult to read
with al99
Dan Lane 17 Sep, 2011 Lead dnf Nails, E2 if done in one pitch.I found the 2nd crux really hard, maybe i missed a hold?
with Normclimber
Nails, E2 if done in one pitch.I found the 2nd crux really hard, maybe i missed a hold?
with Normclimber
Julie Carroll 15 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S Led 2nd pitch.
with Helen Gibson
Led 2nd pitch.
with Helen Gibson
Dean Russell 5 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Marti999 u 2 Aug, 2011 AltLd rpt
with James Richardson
with James Richardson
Graham Westbrook 6 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
wi11 5 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S P1
with Graham Westbrook
P1
with Graham Westbrook
Ceridwen 25 Jun, 2011 AltLd rpt
with Matt Hot rock, Sophie Nunn
with Matt Hot rock, Sophie Nunn
Hidden 25 Jun, 2011 AltLd
Sophie Nunn 25 Jun, 2011 2nd rpt
with Matt Robinson, Ceridwen
with Matt Robinson, Ceridwen
bigie bob 21 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
feeko 21 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S With Dad
With Dad
Hidden 19 Jun, 2011 2nd
La Mont 19 Jun, 2011 Lead rpt
with LiLaMont
with LiLaMont
benjino 6 May, 2011 AltLd O/S Lead 1st Pitch
Lead 1st Pitch
tonanf 26 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S easier than i remembered
with jez, ludvic
easier than i remembered
with jez, ludvic
jezb1 26 Apr, 2011 2nd Steep finish the crux for me
Steep finish the crux for me
RFWilkie 9 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S Bit of an epic, Kev fell from second pitch ripped 3 bits of gear and ended up well below me. Effectively top roped the top pitch as Kev hurt his shoulder and needed lowering off, got rope from above to rescue me!
with Kev
Bit of an epic, Kev fell from second pitch ripped 3 bits of gear and ended up well below me. Effectively top roped the top pitch as Kev hurt his shoulder and needed lowering off, got rope from above to rescue me!
with Kev
Hidden 6 Apr, 2011 Lead
Hidden 2 Apr, 2011 AltLd rpt
Max Streeton 2 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Done many time before.
Done many time before.
Hidden 8 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
Helen Gibson-Hoey 8 Mar, 2011 AltLd led 1st pitch, rested on gear.
with Alice
led 1st pitch, rested on gear.
with Alice
Kevster 19 Feb, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Feb, 2011 2nd
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Sophie Nunn 8 Nov, 2010 AltLd O/S
with AlexD
with AlexD
AlexD 8 Nov, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Sophie Nunn
with Sophie Nunn
Hidden 25 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
risby 18 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
with Neil Weymouth, Tom Thorne
with Neil Weymouth, Tom Thorne
3 Names 11 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
with Mrs Sidehead
with Mrs Sidehead
Jen Crook 27 Aug, 2010 2nd
with robpatchett
with robpatchett
Hidden 27 Aug, 2010 Lead
Hidden 9 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
manwithacam 18 Jul, 2010 Lead Nice climbing
with Mike R
Nice climbing
with Mike R
Hidden 3 Jul, 2010 2nd
MarkRyder 26 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with jamespilgrim
with jamespilgrim
jamespilgrim 26 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S First pitch wet
with MarkRyder
First pitch wet
with MarkRyder
givemetea 13 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Led both pitches. Fab route. Guidebook description of second pitch doesn't match with line on topo - did I do the second pitch of Toiler on the Sea? Lovely whatever!
with paddygoodwin
Led both pitches. Fab route. Guidebook description of second pitch doesn't match with line on topo - did I do the second pitch of Toiler on the Sea? Lovely whatever!
with paddygoodwin
Hidden 10 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
Spence22 15 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with shaw016
with shaw016
Tommy Harris ? May, 2010 AltLd O/S Lead first pitch, then decided to do the second pitch of toiler on the sea
with phillip belcher
Lead first pitch, then decided to do the second pitch of toiler on the sea
with phillip belcher
jgordon75 26 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S Great route. Very well protected. HVS and I dont think any 5b moves.
with Oli Knight
Great route. Very well protected. HVS and I dont think any 5b moves.
with Oli Knight
breed 17 Apr, 2010 AltLd led first pitch. was awesome!
with Ellis Bird
led first pitch. was awesome!
with Ellis Bird
Hidden 14 Mar, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 7 Mar, 2010 2nd
Hidden 7 Mar, 2010 Lead rpt
colkurtz ? Mar, 2010 AltLd
with Adam, Robb
with Adam, Robb
Hidden 20 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
Jane Weir ??, 2010 Lead
Monkey_Alan 18 Oct, 2009 AltLd rpt Led 2nd pitch. Getting past the overhang seemed a whole lot harder than before.
with uncontrollable
Led 2nd pitch. Getting past the overhang seemed a whole lot harder than before.
with uncontrollable
Hidden 18 Oct, 2009 AltLd O/S
Max Streeton 12 Sep, 2009 AltLd
with Monkey_Alan
with Monkey_Alan
Monkey_Alan 12 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S Led 1st pitch. First HVS (CC guide) or first E1 (Rockfax)! Very sustained.
with Max Streeton
Led 1st pitch. First HVS (CC guide) or first E1 (Rockfax)! Very sustained.
with Max Streeton
Hidden 6 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Sep, 2009 2nd rpt
Hidden 6 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
SuseH 29 Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
with IainAM
with IainAM
Hidden 29 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
strapless 18 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S Stu, led first pitch Me Second, found very steady both pitchs
with Stu Evans
Stu, led first pitch Me Second, found very steady both pitchs
with Stu Evans
LiLaMont 15 Aug, 2009 2nd dog
with La Mont
with La Mont
Hidden 26 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
jacobjlloyd 19 Jun, 2009 AltLd rpt Wicked!
with Ceri Hutchinson
Wicked!
with Ceri Hutchinson
Ceridwen 19 Jun, 2009 AltLd dog Foot slipped off pulling over the overhang, stuck it with one hand but hurt myself so rested to check out my injuries. finished the rest clean.
with jacobjlloyd
Foot slipped off pulling over the overhang, stuck it with one hand but hurt myself so rested to check out my injuries. finished the rest clean.
with jacobjlloyd
Elliot King LC&CC 10 Jun, 2009 2nd O/S climbed with pepa
climbed with pepa
tonanf ? Jun, 2009 Lead
with tomek
with tomek
SGD 21 May, 2009 AltLd I did P1 and we both agreed this was the harder pitch. It has all the climbing, P2 has one stiff pull and thats it. Great route though....do P1!!!
with Tom Relf
I did P1 and we both agreed this was the harder pitch. It has all the climbing, P2 has one stiff pull and thats it. Great route though....do P1!!!
with Tom Relf
Bob M u 20 May, 2009 2nd
with Mick Ryan
with Mick Ryan
jezb1 18 Apr, 2009 2nd O/S Nice route, don't think I could have lead it...yet
Nice route, don't think I could have lead it...yet
jacobjlloyd 28 Feb, 2009 Lead O/S one pitch
with feilx
one pitch
with feilx
feilx 28 Feb, 2009 2nd rpt
with jacobjlloyd
with jacobjlloyd
Hidden 16 Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S
metal arms 27 Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S 2nd Pitch
2nd Pitch
Hidden 25 Oct, 2008 2nd
GPN ? Oct, 2008 AltLd
with jamster
with jamster
Hidden 28 Sep, 2008 Lead
Richard Horn 20 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S
Different Steve 15 Sep, 2008 2nd rpt
with Simon Chandler
with Simon Chandler
Hidden ? Sep, 2008 -
Brown 24 Aug, 2008 2nd O/S
with Henry
with Henry
Hidden 15 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Mr Tickle 11 Aug, 2008 Lead
with davenev
with davenev
Tobes ? Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Oli
with Oli
davenev ? Aug, 2008 2nd dog memorable.........
with Mr Tickle
memorable.........
with Mr Tickle
Ed Babs 31 May, 2008 Lead RP
with John Vet
with John Vet
LiLaMont 3 May, 2008 2nd β
with tobydunford
with tobydunford
tobydunford 3 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with LiLaMont
with LiLaMont
clipskipper 5 Apr, 2008 AltLd dog Excellent route and definately worth some stars. Failed to plan the crux carefully enough and it spat me off . . . but I'll be back!
with Ed Babington
Excellent route and definately worth some stars. Failed to plan the crux carefully enough and it spat me off . . . but I'll be back!
with Ed Babington
Hidden 23 Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
tonanf ? Apr, 2007 Lead O/S well hard. I was shi**ing it under the roof. My first lead of my second year. I had forgotten about fear.
with burt
well hard. I was shi**ing it under the roof. My first lead of my second year. I had forgotten about fear.
with burt
Hidden 17 Mar, 2007 -
mat cooper ? Mar, 2007 Lead
chrisbevins ??, 2007 -
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Ramon Marin u 8 Oct, 2006 2nd O/S
with Salomon Fernandez
with Salomon Fernandez
dan gibson 4 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
with jamie evans
with jamie evans
Different Steve 29 Jul, 2006 AltLd rpt Led P1, surprisingly straightforward.
with Martin Hore
Led P1, surprisingly straightforward.
with Martin Hore
blahblahblah 2 Jul, 2006 2nd dog Tried leading but pumped out / sat on gear / lowered off and then still had trouble as 2nd !
with Pascal Guilloux
Tried leading but pumped out / sat on gear / lowered off and then still had trouble as 2nd !
with Pascal Guilloux
andyfeds ? Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S I led bottom pitch, Max led top (where we got a bit lost)
with Max S
I led bottom pitch, Max led top (where we got a bit lost)
with Max S
Hidden ??, 2006 -
BicepAndrews ??, 2006 2nd
with aaronwillis
with aaronwillis
Kyuzo 14 Oct, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Markus Roggen
with Markus Roggen
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing u ? Sep, 2005 AltLd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing u ? Sep, 2005 AltLd O/S
clipskipper 23 Aug, 2005 2nd Nervy start to the top pitch
with Davey Boy
Nervy start to the top pitch
with Davey Boy
Owen W-G 30 Apr, 2005 Lead O/S Led both pitches. UPDATE: have since done this a bunch of times, with varying difficulties on P2. The correct method is to step 1m RIGHT from the belay ledge and head straight up. If you find the mouldy peg hidden just under the overlap you are going the right way. Heading up and left from the stance is totally possible but harder with probably scarier.
with Andrew
Led both pitches. UPDATE: have since done this a bunch of times, with varying difficulties on P2. The correct method is to step 1m RIGHT from the belay ledge and head straight up. If you find the mouldy peg hidden just under the overlap you are going the right way. Heading up and left from the stance is totally possible but harder with probably scarier.
with Andrew
Boxy 20 Feb, 2005 Lead O/S
brian watson ??, 2005 Lead O/S
with Tim Dunsby
with Tim Dunsby
feilx ??, 2005 -
DavidR 10 Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 May, 2003 2nd O/S
Dave Cundy ??, 2003 Lead rpt
with Dave Wood
with Dave Wood
Hidden 2 May, 2002 AltLd
Hidden 30 May, 2001 AltLd
lost.arrow 26 May, 2001 Lead HVS 5a, 5a ** in my book. Traumatised by a HVS!
with Paul Palfreyman
HVS 5a, 5a ** in my book. Traumatised by a HVS!
with Paul Palfreyman
Ian JL ??, 2001 Lead O/S
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Marti999 u ??, 2000 Lead
cem 12 Sep, 1999 AltLd O/S Led p1
with GrahamD
Led p1
with GrahamD
Lepista 16 Jul, 1999 Lead Climbed with Dave
Climbed with Dave
Hidden 8 May, 1999 AltLd O/S
WB 19 Nov, 1998 AltLd O/S
with GuyM
with GuyM
migs493 u 14 Apr, 1998 AltLd O/S
pezzerrr 28 Mar, 1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Feb, 1998 2nd
Ally Smith ??, 1998 Lead O/S
kylo-342 ? Oct, 1997 2nd
with Roger
with Roger
Dave Cundy ? Aug, 1997 AltLd O/S
with Phil Lee
with Phil Lee
tracyclimber 27 Jun, 1995 Lead Hard lead. Was HVS 5a when I climbed it
with john burnip
Hard lead. Was HVS 5a when I climbed it
with john burnip
Hidden ??, 1994 -
MoWalker3 29 Jun, 1992 AltLd
with Joe
with Joe
kylo-342 ? May, 1991 Lead
RichardMc 21 Apr, 1991 2nd
with Angel Vila
with Angel Vila
steve taylor u ? Feb, 1991 AltLd
with Ket
with Ket
scott titt 3 May, 1990 -
with Nigel Coe
with Nigel Coe
Nigel Coe 3 May, 1990 -
with scott titt, Tim Dunsby
with scott titt, Tim Dunsby
Hidden ? Aug, 1986 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 6 Mar, 1983 AltLd
Nigel Coe 16 Jun, 1982 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
with Tim Dunsby
Chris Ebbutt ??, 1980 Lead
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 73
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 67
Votes cast 91
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Thunderball

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)