UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions apply between the Dancing Ledge and Valkyrie Buttress Direct, and also east of The Razor's Edge.

33m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A sustained, varied climb and one of the best E1s at Swanage. Start under a prominent, smooth-sided corner.
1) 5a, 18m. Climb a corner to the roof, and swing right to beneath a smooth sided corner. Climb the fine corner to the mid-height break and belay on a ledge to the right.
2) 5b, 15m. Step right onto the wall and climb easily, but boldly up to the chert band and roof - old hidden peg. Arrange good gear and step left. Pull over the overhang and finish up the bold wall. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, P.Sharman 31/Mar/1974.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , Ultimate E1 ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Memorable Climbs , Cool Names , Dorset , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9 , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kiddie68 8 Feb Show βeta
βeta: Great route. Good jams and rests with perfect gear, on first pitch. Second pitch a bit bolder due hard to find/trust gear. Planned to do as single pitch but took belay as top pitch quite a long way right of first. I actually top-roped the direct finish line; probably hard E1, poss E2 as a single pitch, but gear slightly better than original.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route. Good jams and rests with perfect gear, on first pitch. Second pitch a bit bolder due hard to find/trust gear. Planned to do as single pitch but took belay as top pitch quite a long way right of first. I actually top-roped the direct finish line; probably hard E1, poss E2 as a single pitch, but gear slightly better than original.
ben_st 20 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure about the 'swing right' in the description, it's a full on traverse on undercuts, any swing would likely see you pendulum off the cliff.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not sure about the 'swing right' in the description, it's a full on traverse on undercuts, any swing would likely see you pendulum off the cliff.
Iain Weymouth 3 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Wonderful contrasting pitches. There's a wedged cam (not mine!) next to the decrepit peg at the P2 overlap. These two together plus the infamous high big nut should be plenty for the pull onto the wall.
Show beta
βeta: Wonderful contrasting pitches. There's a wedged cam (not mine!) next to the decrepit peg at the P2 overlap. These two together plus the infamous high big nut should be plenty for the pull onto the wall.
GrahamD 12 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: My favourite Swanage HVS. Pitch 1 in particular is a real gem.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My favourite Swanage HVS. Pitch 1 in particular is a real gem.
Owen W-G 3 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nice one Tim - your comments made it into the new guide! An excellent route btw. Head right asap from the belay for a great finish
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice one Tim - your comments made it into the new guide! An excellent route btw. Head right asap from the belay for a great finish
ian bryant 13 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: agreed, i went left and was totally gripped on a footless mantel!
Show beta
βeta: agreed, i went left and was totally gripped on a footless mantel!
Different Steve 13 Nov, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Top pitch is fairly serious if you go left - Moves after the initial section are tricky and protected by poorish small wire(s). Not at all obvious which way to go.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top pitch is fairly serious if you go left - Moves after the initial section are tricky and protected by poorish small wire(s). Not at all obvious which way to go.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 85
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 79
Votes cast 105
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Elysium

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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