45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Similar quality to Gypsy (page 291 ) with some nice steep climbing. Start at a right-facing corner. High in the grade.
1) 5a, 12m. Climb the corner and move left around an arete to a ledge. Trend rightwards to another ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 30m. Climb cracks above, passing the fault-line with conviction and move up to a second roof. Traverse right to a shallow corner (peg) then continue to a bigger corner and finish up it. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, P.Charman 19.5.74 19/May/1974

Ticklists: Ultimate E1 ticklist, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.

mutt 27/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with sarah
andycash 15/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
with Rob Butcher
LJC 27/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

P2. Really loose and quite serious because of this.

with Herve
hervenuttall ?/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

Lead P1. P2 was loose

with Luca
manwithacam 20/Feb/17 AltLd

Good adventure, great route

with Mark Grist
The Grist 20/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

Led pitch one. An enjoyable route. I would recommend belaying on the ledge above the jugs rather than where the peg is. It would be more comfortable.

with Dan Metcalfe
Bloke on a Rope 24/Jul/16 2nd β

Blooming good lead Tim! The first pitch was unbelievably greasy which made the move leaving the corner the crux for me, the top pitch was behaving better but still tricky.

tim.fairhall 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S

As 1 pitch

with Ian
BenL 16/Jul/16 2nd β
RKirke 16/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Seb Lee 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Great climb, found it more testing the Elysium, but i was using a slimmed down rack, got dive bombed by gulls and it started to rain so the last 10m was wet. A proper adventure! Take care tho as my second pulled a block roughly a foot square out of the undercling traverse, so there is now a large hole there! luckily he was last up, so no drama but take care with suspect blocks!

with angus, John
JUSTADUDE 01/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Mark Warnett ?/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Francois R 08/May/16 2nd

sustained 6a+. Harder than Elysium, requires some route finding and continuity.

with Stephen
Hidden 08/May/16 Lead rpt
Jus 08/May/16 2nd
with Sue
ASchwirtz 01/May/16 2nd O/S
islandlynx 16/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
Matt77 16/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

P2 led.

with Shane
Helen Gibson 02/Apr/16 -
Martin Bagshaw 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Rafal Malczyk
Rafal Malczyk 11/Oct/15 2nd dog
with Martin Bagshaw
Hidden 03/Aug/15 Lead rpt
Misha 01/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Precarious and tricky sequence to get out of the starting corner onto the jugs on the arête. Couple of other 5b sections as well.

with Mark S
ian bryant ??/2015 -
jcw ??/2015 -
kp64zl ?/Oct/14 AltLd O/S


with Julian M
ian d f 17/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Paul K
Ash Sayers 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Kirill 29/Mar/14 2nd rpt
AlexD 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Monkey_Alan 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Nice climbing all the way.

Simon Allcock ??/2014 AltLd O/S
with Wilki
mike.moss 17/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Kirill 17/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Very enjoyable.

Hidden 30/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
paultaylor 30/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

P2 finished in the dark

with Tom P
tonevert 16/Feb/13 2nd
with Kevin Faux
Kevster 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S
ianto ??/2013 -
nigel pearson 11/Nov/12 AltLd O/S

brilliant climbing. perfect day in November. Tshirt weather, calm seas. technical moves some distance above good gear.

with Robin
Owen W-G 29/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led p2.. Good value E1. Sunny t-shirt weather, best conditions I've known at Swanage.

with Ryan
Hidden 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/12 2nd rpt
CRiddiford 02/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Becca
BeccaSnowden 02/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2. Really good route.

Jake Young 24/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Mike
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/12 Lead dog
GarethHall 13/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch. Patrick got persistently dive-bombed by an angry seagull whilst leading pitch 2 :-)

paddygoodwinlondon 13/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Gareth Hall
Hidden 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 02/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
wi11 02/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
colkurtz 31/Jul/11 2nd
with Robb
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead
tonanf 22/Jun/11 Lead
with james
tonanf 22/Jun/11 Lead
with james
martinazando 25/Apr/11 2nd O/S
al99 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
ian d f 20/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with Emmanuel
jacobjlloyd 12/Mar/11 2nd β
with Dougie
dswansonlow 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S

All one pitch. Crux at beginning.

cem 26/Sep/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead rpt
davewing 13/Jun/10 2nd
with Lee
clipskipper 13/Jun/10 Lead β

Probably not the best climb to try and lead both pitches.

with Dave Wing
petitflous05 12/Jun/10 2nd

Think the crux is easier compared to Elysium. I would like to lead this clean next time.

Hidden 30/Jan/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Jan/10 2nd
Sophie Nunn 04/Oct/09 AltLd
brian watson 06/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

lead P1

with neil weymouth
clipskipper 29/Aug/09 AltLd dog

Ran into trouble at the break, and the peg above is shot. All but dark by the time we topped out.

with Davey Boy
Hidden 19/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/May/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/May/09 Lead O/S
tebs 10/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Mike
pezzerrr 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2009 -
Ed Babs 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with John Vet
sinbad ?/Jul/08 AltLd
with Ben Bradford
Richard Horn 03/Nov/07 2nd
Hidden 20/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Neil Adams 02/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Rob
tonanf ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S


with PSue
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Different Steve 24/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Led in one.

with Jen Towill
dan gibson 03/Apr/06 AltLd rpt
with jamie evans
dan gibson 23/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with jamie evans
Hidden ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 AltLd
feilx ??/2005 -
Hidden 04/Sep/04 Lead O/S
cem 20/Jun/04 AltLd O/S

Led p2 with 1 fall

Hidden 23/Jun/02 Lead
Ian JL ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/00 AltLd O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
Bruce Kerr 13/Apr/95 AltLd
with Perric Crellin
William Robertson ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
OMSKB 05/May/93 AltLd O/S

ended up having to start the route before richard reached the belay to avoid being swept of the bouldrs in the rising tide and sea

with Richard Winfield
Hidden ?/Oct/90 Lead O/S
steve taylor ?/Jul/90 AltLd
with steve kerr
Nigel Coe ??/1990 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
Pete Nugent 25/Mar/89 AltLd

I led p1, JS p2

with John Stringfellow
adriandesouza ?/Apr/87 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 20/Jul/82 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 34
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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