UKC

Rockfax Description
The 'boob'-covered leaning wall gives a unique climb. Start in the middle of the narrow wall. Climb with difficulty to the first of 3 titanium pegs that mark out the line. Increasingly pumpy moves past the upper pegs end at a final wall of large pebbles. Move right to finish. An alternative start can be made from the arete on the right of the initial wall. There is a peg and stake belay in the stream bed. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Following the removal of the titanium protection pegs, this is probably now E8. Note, the original line climbed the centre of the wall to the left of the pegs. The wall can probably be climbed anywhere at E8 6b although starting on the right is thought to be slightly easier.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Culm - When the tide's in. , Southwest Ticklist 2022 , South West in Extremis , Soft Touches , Cheesemen to Piddlybonk

Feedback

User Date Notes
Si says 19 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Even without the pegs, the direct (original) start to this routes is probably still E7. No need for hyped-up calls for E8. E7 is a wide grade. “the … suggestion it's now E8 might be a little bit off...”
Show beta
βeta: Even without the pegs, the direct (original) start to this routes is probably still E7. No need for hyped-up calls for E8. E7 is a wide grade. “the … suggestion it's now E8 might be a little bit off...”
Ram MkiV 6 Jul, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Good parking beta from George_Surf - there's an ideal little lay-by at little marsland next to a footpath which leads onto the coast path.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good parking beta from George_Surf - there's an ideal little lay-by at little marsland next to a footpath which leads onto the coast path.
Nick1812P 9 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: New stake added 6/7/23 total length was 1m so a an extra solid anchor to back up the others. Now 2 solid stakes and one slightly deteriorated one.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: New stake added 6/7/23 total length was 1m so a an extra solid anchor to back up the others. Now 2 solid stakes and one slightly deteriorated one.

Logged Ascents

38 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Gull Rock - Marsland

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Voting
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
Votes cast 8
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Onsighted
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bridge of Sies

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Carn Vellan)

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