Rockfax Description
The 'boob'-covered leaning wall gives a unique climb. Start in the middle of the narrow wall. Climb with difficulty to the first of 3 titanium pegs that mark out the line. Increasingly pumpy moves past the upper pegs end at a final wall of large pebbles. Move right to finish. An alternative start can be made from the arete on the right of the initial wall. There is a peg and stake belay in the stream bed. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Following the removal of the titanium protection pegs, this is probably now E8. Note, the original line climbed the centre of the wall to the left of the pegs. The wall can probably be climbed anywhere at E8 6b although starting on the right is thought to be slightly easier.
West Country Climbs , Culm - When the tide's in. , Southwest Ticklist 2022 , South West in Extremis , Soft Touches , Cheesemen to Piddlybonk
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Si says | 19 Aug |
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βeta: Even without the pegs, the direct (original) start to this routes is probably still E7. No need for hyped-up calls for E8. E7 is a wide grade. “the … suggestion it's now E8 might be a little bit off...” | ||
Show beta
βeta: Even without the pegs, the direct (original) start to this routes is probably still E7. No need for hyped-up calls for E8. E7 is a wide grade. “the … suggestion it's now E8 might be a little bit off...” |
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Ram MkiV | 6 Jul, 2024 |
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βeta: Good parking beta from George_Surf - there's an ideal little lay-by at little marsland next to a footpath which leads onto the coast path. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good parking beta from George_Surf - there's an ideal little lay-by at little marsland next to a footpath which leads onto the coast path. |
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Nick1812P | 9 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: New stake added 6/7/23 total length was 1m so a an extra solid anchor to back up the others. Now 2 solid stakes and one slightly deteriorated one. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: New stake added 6/7/23 total length was 1m so a an extra solid anchor to back up the others. Now 2 solid stakes and one slightly deteriorated one. |
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Grade: E7 6b ***
(Carn Vellan)