UKC

Climbs 39
Rocktype Greenstone
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

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Henry Castle on the classic Right Angle © mountaindavet

Crag features

Gurnard's Head is a dramatic feature. It was the site of an Iron Age cliff-castle and still has the remains of ancient hut circles on its eastern slopes. There are three main areas of climbing - The Gurnard's Head, Right Angle Zawn, and Kittiwake Zawn.

The climbs are very intimidating and require good judgment of conditions to be enjoyed to the full. The rock is generally excellent, and has good friction when dry. However, the routes are susceptible to persistent greasiness and are therefore best attempted in the sun or after long dry-periods.

Most of the climbs are affected by both tide and sea state. Although it is possible to do Right Angle at high tide if the sea is calm, all the other lines require a low tide and calm sea-conditions.

Approach notes

Take the B3306 St. Ives - Pendeen road to the Gurnard's Head Hotel and park on the verge opposite the hotel. Walk down the lane to the right of the hotel, past cottages, and follow a signed footpath towards the coast, taking the higher, left-hand path where it splits. Gurnard's Head is the large, rocky headland directly ahead. Right Angle Zawn is easily located on the left, at the beginning of the headland. Kittiwake Zawn is the deep and narrow zawn immediately to the west of Right Angle Zawn.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Behemoth will rarely come in to condition. You need low tide and very little swell (under 3ft)and if the sun is needed to dry it your ascent will be after 6pm.
Kafoozalem - 26/Mar/12
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Climbs at this crag

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