Rockfax Description
A great route with fly-on-the wall style situations on a subtle right-to-left line across the sheer back wall of the zawn. The start is often damp, and care is needed in setting up a solid belay at the end of the first pitch. If the sea is rough or the tide high, it is usual to abseil to the first stance and do only the top two pitches. Start from a belay at the base of Shark.
1) 5b, 22m. From the belay, climb up left to a niche at the base of a crack in the wall left of the Shark corner. Immediately traverse left to another niche in a crack. Climb the crack to a move leftwards and a tiny stance and hanging belay.
2) 5c, 18m. Move left and up to the base of a thin crack via an awkward move. Climb the thin crack. At its end, traverse rightwards to a stance in the left-leaning corner.
3) 5c, 10m. The steep crackline above the stance provides a pumpy climax. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** West Cornwall , Cornwall 2021 , South West in Extremis , Cornwall
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Misha | 25 May |
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βeta: If climbing from the bottom, as one should be, and the climbing into and out of the first niche is slippery, as it should be, a large silver cam will be found useful to steady the nerves, as they should be. However you don’t want to anger the Mastodon by cheating like that, now do you? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: If climbing from the bottom, as one should be, and the climbing into and out of the first niche is slippery, as it should be, a large silver cam will be found useful to steady the nerves, as they should be. However you don’t want to anger the Mastodon by cheating like that, now do you? |
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| Dexter JW | 5 May |
Show βeta
βeta: No med-large cams needed for P3 at all, 10/10 medium nuts to use away from the hand jams. Good no.5(DMM) nut and small cams for the 'hanging' belay after P1. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: No med-large cams needed for P3 at all, 10/10 medium nuts to use away from the hand jams. Good no.5(DMM) nut and small cams for the 'hanging' belay after P1. |
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| Dan Arkle | 23 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Led p3, Donie joined 1&2 together | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Led p3, Donie joined 1&2 together |
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A Swift Flight of Fancy
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Sennen)