Rockfax Description
An devious climb to the right of Mot Sola. The route follows flakes and grooves to a great section under the large roof and ends with friction climbing. Large cams are needed on the fifth pitch.
Approach - Follow the road along the base of the mountain. Locate the well-worn path that branches off the road 2-300m before you are beneath the route. Continue diagonally over slabs to the start of the route.
1) N6-, 30m. From the ramp at the start of Mot Sola, climb straight up along flakes with bolts and pitons showing the way. The pitch is fully fixed gear and can be climbed while you wait for other parties to get going on Mot Sola. Bolted belay.
2) N6-, 55m. Continue up friction (bolts) then flakes and finally a narrow groove to a bolted belay.
3) N5, 50m. Traverse out right under a big roof, carefully looking out for a piton and some bolts. Continue precariously to a belay located inside a small groove at the right side of the roof. There is little in the way of protection on this pitch.
4) N6, 50m. Traverse left, then up and left via a groove. Friction climbing with just enough bolts to keep you going. A beautiful pitch that leads to a belay under another roof. Note: If this pitch is wet, it is a very different proposition.
5) N6-, 50m. Climb up to the big crack under the roof and continue along this, placing big cams. As the crack gets narrower save a small cam for the last bit before you leave the roof and continue out right in an exposed position.
6) N5, 40m. Climb up nice grooves, with good protection, to a ledge on the right.
7) N6+, 60m. From the ledge, closely-spaced bolts protect a very hard section. Continue through a small roof past more bolts to the belay.
8) N4+, 60m. Climb easy friction to the top.
Descent - The route can be abseiled with double 60m ropes. The belay on top of pitch 4 is NOT equipped for abseil. The abseil from the top of pitch 5 goes directly to the belay on top of pitch 3. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Some bolts, abseil possible from all pitches except P4.
P1 6- 30m, P2 6- 55m, P3 5 50m, P4 5+ 50m, P5 6- 50m, P6 5- 40m, P7 6+ 60 m, P8 4 60m.

K & M Grimseth, M. Olsen 2000.

Feedback Always Hide βeta