This is one of the best offerings in Nissedal following a striking line. It is a long climb with mostly crack climbing offering different widths. There is an optional start which adds two friction pitches. These are seldom climbed as most people approach by scrambling a ramp to the start of the 4th pitch (good shoes necessary). Big cams are invaluable on this climb. Approach - Follow the road along the base of the mountain to a very well-worn path that branches off the road around 2-300m before you are beneath the route. Continue diagonally leftwards through the trees, then over slabs to the start of the route, or walk down to the optional start.1) N5, 40m. Climb slabs to a flake system and follow them slightly left to a one bolt belay.2) N5, 50m. Continue up slabs trending right at the start of the pitch. Belay when you reach the ramp. The climb is usually started here.3) 20m. Follow the ramp easily to the bottom of the flaky groove and belay on a single bolt. 4) N5, 40m. Climb the flaky (right) groove being careful about where you put runners - some of the flakes can be unstable. Pass an optional stance and climb steeper rock to a belay on nice grassy ledge at the top of a groove.5) N5+, 40m. Follow the groove for 15m and make steep moves left to another groove and more cracks. Follow these to a foothold stance at a bolt belay which can be backed up by a large cam.6) N5+, 50m. Continue up wide cracks (large cams) to easier terrain and continue to a belay on a ledge below a steep section.7) N6-, 40m. The steep start is technical but it is well protected. Continue up cracks then traverse the slab rightwards (often wet). Belay on a single bolt with back up.8) N5, 25m. Move up to the roof then continue diagonally rightwards to the bottom of a steeper section and another single bolt belay.9) N5+, 50m. Climb the steeper section (optional nice finger-crack on the right) and continue through an awkward wide section (big cams) to a grassy ledge.From the last belay follow a well-worn path that leads leftwards along a ledge to the top.Descent - From the top of the mountain, follow the ridge west (plenty of cairns) and pass one steep section before you head down a slab into a gully that cuts across your path. Turn right and descend more steeply, down a very well-worn path through the woods. This path joins a blue-marked path that leads down to the road beneath Hægefjell. Follow the road back to the camp. The descent takes approximately 1.5 hours. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
One of the classics of the Hægefjell. A direct start is described in the Rockfax guide but most people start at the main corner system. The route often suffers from seapage to varying degrees.
n6- in the Rockfax guide, n6- in the online guide, and n6 in the Gå Telemark guide.
Ø. Moss and H. Lykkja 1988.
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