Rockfax Description
(The Normal Route) The route doesn't include much actual climbing, just a few short tricky pitches and quite a lot of wandering about on ledges, though it is worth the effort to top out on such a fine peak. A couple of the harder sections are awkward to arrange protection for the second man - care needed with beginners. .
1) Scramble easily up the ramp to a groove on the left.
2) N4+. Climb the groove awkwardly to ledges.
3) N4. An open groove leads to ledges, and an abseil anchor on the left.
4) N4+. Steeper rock and a slab lead to a belay at the base of a chimney.
5) N4+. Climb the chimney to an awkward traverse left (small spike runner to protect the second) to a belay on a long ledge. 6) N5-. Follow the ledge leftwards passing some rocky steps, one of which has a stubborn exit, to reach an abseil anchor.
7) Head left onto the ridge to where an easy scramble gains the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
4+, 4, 5-, 4+, 5-. The original line of ascent weaves up the West Face - follow the trail!
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Peter f | 14 Jun |
Show βeta
βeta: The abseil route shown on the sign at the parking works well for avoiding stuck ropes. Also found the topo in this report to be more helpful than the Rockfax topo/description: https://peakbook.org/no/tour/167213/Hamar%C3%B8yskaftet+i+Nordland+%28alene%29+-+med+h%C3%A5rfin+margin.html | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The abseil route shown on the sign at the parking works well for avoiding stuck ropes. Also found the topo in this report to be more helpful than the Rockfax topo/description: https://peakbook.org/no/tour/167213/Hamar%C3%B8yskaftet+i+Nordland+%28alene%29+-+med+h%C3%A5rfin+margin.html |
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Østkammen
Grade: n5- ***
(Kuglhornet)