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The rock varies in character from typically quarried on the lower tier through to more abrasive rock on the upper tier where blasting has uncovered large tracts of calcite-encrusted rock which almost feels like natural limestone. As with most quarries, extra vigilance needs to be exercised by both climber and belayer here given the blasting activity which has created potential for loose rock.
Don't swim in the bright blue toxic pool (as if you needed telling)!
Rockfax Description
A superb route which is easier than it appears but should not be underestimated. Climb the face right of the corner, then pull out left onto the slab. Climb and power through the bulge then traverse up right to a lower-off. © Rockfax
FA. Bill Birch, Sid Siddiqui 1994.
Ticklists
Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+ , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes? , Peak sport , Harpur Hill , Peak sport for mortals , The Eal List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gary Gibson | 4 Sep |
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βeta: completely rebolted | βeta? | |
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βeta: completely rebolted |
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| Annaproffitt | 26 Jul |
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βeta: The first bolt was so loose the hanger came off (reported by the next team), they screwed it back on but could not fix it properly. The second bolt is fine and easily reached by a clipstick | βeta? | |
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βeta: The first bolt was so loose the hanger came off (reported by the next team), they screwed it back on but could not fix it properly. The second bolt is fine and easily reached by a clipstick |
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| gritstonegurl | 11 Mar |
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βeta: Great route, second bolt still loose. Spicy top but lovely jugs up to there. 10/10 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route, second bolt still loose. Spicy top but lovely jugs up to there. 10/10 |
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| bclifton | 28 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: The bolts were fine as of today | βeta? | |
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βeta: The bolts were fine as of today |
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| Gary Gibson | 4 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: If a bolt hanger is loose, take a spanner and tighten it don’t complain about it and expect someone else to do it! | βeta? | |
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βeta: If a bolt hanger is loose, take a spanner and tighten it don’t complain about it and expect someone else to do it! |
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| katgem5596 | 23 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Route it quite polished, so found the first section a bit spicy. 2nd bolt is loose and possibly the 4th. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Route it quite polished, so found the first section a bit spicy. 2nd bolt is loose and possibly the 4th. |
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| JamieSparkes | 10 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: This should absolutely be a trad route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This should absolutely be a trad route. |
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| edogaude | 18 May, 2020 |
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βeta: awkward traverse right at the top | βeta? | |
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βeta: awkward traverse right at the top |
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| tbrittain | 23 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Bolt before pulling onto the top slab section loose. Needs tightening, nipped it up with my fingers. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bolt before pulling onto the top slab section loose. Needs tightening, nipped it up with my fingers. |
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| TurnipPrincess | 20 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Hard for the short. Wouldn\'t lead it. Only if I grew to 6 feet. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Hard for the short. Wouldn't lead it. Only if I grew to 6 feet. |
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| choose colour | 24 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: What a great route with a scary traverse to the finish. Worth 3 stars ✨ | βeta? | |
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βeta: What a great route with a scary traverse to the finish. Worth 3 stars ✨ |
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| Richard 261 | 11 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: Not as wonderful as I expected from a starred climb. Just OK really. The HVS next to it has better climbing (although more wandering). | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not as wonderful as I expected from a starred climb. Just OK really. The HVS next to it has better climbing (although more wandering). |
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| MNA123 | 18 Jun, 2007 |
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βeta: Agree with James Turnbull could be led on Trad gear, a shame its been bolted as would make a very nice HVS/E1 with a nice bold start and finish but well protected crux. I placed a cpl of bits of pro anyway cuz a cpl of the bolts look crap! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Agree with James Turnbull could be led on Trad gear, a shame its been bolted as would make a very nice HVS/E1 with a nice bold start and finish but well protected crux. I placed a cpl of bits of pro anyway cuz a cpl of the bolts look crap! |
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| mat_galvin | 17 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Fantastic | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fantastic |
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| Souljah | 12 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Fantastic route for a summers evening. Varied climbing on lovely natural features! Quite exposed and committing crux | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fantastic route for a summers evening. Varied climbing on lovely natural features! Quite exposed and committing crux |
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| Jim Houghton | 11 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Wonderful route, perfect for an evening cruise! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Wonderful route, perfect for an evening cruise! |
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| The old James turnbull | 3 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: it gets 3 stars in the guide, the buldge is alot easier than it looks, wasnt going to mention the pocket, but too late. great route not even very hard for 6a i think. dont know why it got bolted cos could be lead well with lots of gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: it gets 3 stars in the guide, the buldge is alot easier than it looks, wasnt going to mention the pocket, but too late. great route not even very hard for 6a i think. dont know why it got bolted cos could be lead well with lots of gear. |
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| Chris the Tall | 16 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: The upper bulge is a lot easier than it looks from below | βeta? | |
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βeta: The upper bulge is a lot easier than it looks from below |
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