The rock varies in character from typically quarried on the lower tier through to more abrasive rock on the upper tier where blasting has uncovered large tracts of calcite-encrusted rock which almost feels like natural limestone. As with most quarries, extra vigilance needs to be exercised by both climber and belayer here given the blasting activity which has created potential for loose rock.
Don't swim in the bright blue toxic pool (as if you needed telling)!
Rockfax Description
The arete has a problematic start. © Rockfax
FA. Bill Birch, Nadim Siddiqui 1994.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Gary Gibson | 25 May |
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βeta: New route to tge right is Toast (6a) and right again is (Granola) (6a) | βeta? | |
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βeta: New route to tge right is Toast (6a) and right again is (Granola) (6a) |
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goshawk | 8 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Tough for the grade if the arete is taken in its entirety. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Tough for the grade if the arete is taken in its entirety. |
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chrisdjackson | 14 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Potentially dangerous and badly graded for it. The slab was fun and interesting but 6a only for the tall. The finish doesn’t seem to follow the line any more. There is a move around the arête to a ledge and new belay up above. By now you are well above your last bolt but around a sharp arête for a last move. A bolt seems to have been chopped here meaning the last move (low 6a) would be a bloody mess if frigged. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Potentially dangerous and badly graded for it. The slab was fun and interesting but 6a only for the tall. The finish doesn’t seem to follow the line any more. There is a move around the arête to a ledge and new belay up above. By now you are well above your last bolt but around a sharp arête for a last move. A bolt seems to have been chopped here meaning the last move (low 6a) would be a bloody mess if frigged. |
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Chris the Tall | 16 Aug, 2004 |
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βeta: Artifical ? Inescapable ? Hard for 6a ? Maybe it's easier for the tall but I wouldn't agree with any of those comments. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Artifical ? Inescapable ? Hard for 6a ? Maybe it's easier for the tall but I wouldn't agree with any of those comments. |
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Dave Garnett | 5 Aug, 2004 |
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βeta: The direct start is very artificial (and the positioning of the bolt suggests it wasn't the original way). The top, however, is inescapable and much harder, I think. Very hard for 6a (but then I think all the grades from 5 to 6b+ on the lower tier were awarded more or less randomly. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The direct start is very artificial (and the positioning of the bolt suggests it wasn't the original way). The top, however, is inescapable and much harder, I think. Very hard for 6a (but then I think all the grades from 5 to 6b+ on the lower tier were awarded more or less randomly. |
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Grade: 6a ***
(Harpur Hill Quarry)