UKC

20m. Divided into two parts. Start on the left-most part o the lower wall that is left of the large recess where Cranium Crack is. Climb the arete to the terrace and reach the tree stump (belay?) and then continue using the most prominent crack-line to the top using the line of least resistance.

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User Date Notes
Shee Climbs 1 Aug Show βeta
βeta: First piece of gear (a wall nut within arms reach for the start) is for psychological confidence having to solo the whole first section of the arĂȘte. Soloed the first pitch then belayed from the tree root which is solid. Then second up the next pitch with crux. Small foot hold under the crux which cannot be see when first pulling up into the crack. Getting foot on this gives good leverage pulling good jugs on the right, then foot jam into the crack on the way up. Could also get an ok hand jam in the crack as an alternative to the polished rock. Couple of loose rocks near the top of the first pitch.
Show beta
βeta: First piece of gear (a wall nut within arms reach for the start) is for psychological confidence having to solo the whole first section of the arĂȘte. Soloed the first pitch then belayed from the tree root which is solid. Then second up the next pitch with crux. Small foot hold under the crux which cannot be see when first pulling up into the crack. Getting foot on this gives good leverage pulling good jugs on the right, then foot jam into the crack on the way up. Could also get an ok hand jam in the crack as an alternative to the polished rock. Couple of loose rocks near the top of the first pitch.

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