40m.
Climbs the obvious striking corner of the crag with considerable exposure via a huge cave crack system.
The rock must be dry otherwise the grade will increase considerably. best conditions are early evening on dry sunny days to dry the crux. No sun gets to the cave crack until evening. And a falling tide with calm seas required, as any swell will make the start damp.
Start up the crack system at the back of the cave leading to the first squeeze/off width. This is the first crux and can be protected with solid high nut placements.the sequence of moves naturally push you out rightwards before stepping back right.
Follow the slot above to exit the cave rightward to the lip of the overhang again good large nut protection . The second crux is exiting the wildly exposed groove at the lip to gain the sanctuary of the finish crack system above. Large cams and hex's provide solid protection the rock is friable at the lip and adds to the excitement. Long slings and carefull rope management is required to climb in one pitch. Rope drag did not apply on the first accent due to the role solo set up. the top anchors are over the back of the promontory round a huge block. A 60 m rope is needed to reach this.
The rock must be dry otherwise the grade will increase considerably. best conditions are early evening on dry sunny days to dry the crux. No sun gets to the cave crack until evening. And a falling tide with calm seas required, as any swell will make the start damp.
Start up the crack system at the back of the cave leading to the first squeeze/off width. This is the first crux and can be protected with solid high nut placements.the sequence of moves naturally push you out rightwards before stepping back right.
Follow the slot above to exit the cave rightward to the lip of the overhang again good large nut protection . The second crux is exiting the wildly exposed groove at the lip to gain the sanctuary of the finish crack system above. Large cams and hex's provide solid protection the rock is friable at the lip and adds to the excitement. Long slings and carefull rope management is required to climb in one pitch. Rope drag did not apply on the first accent due to the role solo set up. the top anchors are over the back of the promontory round a huge block. A 60 m rope is needed to reach this.
Luke pavey lead rope solo 17/May/2025.
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Route of Interest
West Wing
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Trewavas)