UKC

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Avoid the crag after rain - the porous rock absorbs water causing holds to become brittle. The top tier bouldering normally dries fastest and is exposed to any wind going.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrines nest left of Clashhooks Gully as you look in, please avoid all routes on Upper & Lower Central Buttresses during this period. Raven have also been sighted around the route 'The Notch' - climbers are advised to avoid this area if the birds are in residence. 

Peregrine chicks were confirmed in 2022, 2023 was less clear and we're checking the situation for 2024. The site is actively monitored by local bird groups, please avoid until the agreed date of 30 June and possibly longer to give chicks chance to fledge. Peregrines are a protected species covered by criminal law.

Done for years as a good warm up: not in the guidebook but worth mentioning. Take the easiest line from the foot of Left Arete to the right hand end of the cave or vice versa based roughly on the break at 2 to 2.5 metres (at least 4 completely separate somewhat harder eliminate lines can be done by keeping the hands on lines as near to horizontal as possible at different levels).

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User Date Notes
harold walmsley 22 Feb, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Very quick drying
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very quick drying

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