Restricted Access
Avoid the crag after rain - the porous rock absorbs water causing holds to become brittle. The top tier bouldering normally dries fastest and is exposed to any wind going.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrines nest left of Clashhooks Gully as you look in, please avoid all routes on Upper & Lower Central Buttresses during this period. Raven have also been sighted around the route 'The Notch' - climbers are advised to avoid this area if the birds are in residence.
Peregrine chicks were confirmed in 2022, 2023 was less clear and we're checking the situation for 2024. The site is actively monitored by local bird groups, please avoid until the agreed date of 30 June and possibly longer to give chicks chance to fledge. Peregrines are a protected species covered by criminal law.
Climb Atful Dodging into Right Nosey. Eliminating the juggy line of holds on Long Traverse. A slightly more sustained finish than the original Artful Dodging.
Phillhop 30/May/2021.
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Logged Ascents
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The Dark Ark
Grade: f7A+ ***
(Harmer's Wood)