Rockfax Description
An old classic finding a sneaky way up the crag's tallest face. The route is relatively easy for VS but oddly it is hard work all the way!
1) 4b, 14m. Shin up the wide crack with difficulty and hidden holds to a hard exit and a stance at the base of the main corner.
2) 4c, 14m. Climb the tough wide groove (okay, it may be 5a) past a ledge (stance?) to a bigger picnic-style ledge on the left.
3) 3c, 10m. The groove above the ledge to a rightwards exit (direct is harder), or the one out to the right (4b). © Rockfax
FA. John Laycock 1909.
Classic Rock , ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Advanced beginner Hen Cloud and Ramshaw , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Hard Grit history , 100 Western Grit Stars , Darrencabowabo,s hit list , Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins. , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Hen Cloud , On Peak Rock , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , BSR multipitch routes , 100 Best Routes on Grit , Absolutely STOKEd on trent (road to western grit mastery) , Peaky
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Maddie | 8 May |
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βeta: Didn't see the below comment unfortunately- there's now 5 eggs so should best avoid for now | βeta? | |
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βeta: Didn't see the below comment unfortunately- there's now 5 eggs so should best avoid for now |
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Iain Weymouth | 2 May |
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βeta: 4 or 5 jackdaw nests in the cracks, no eggs at the moment but best give it a miss for a month or two | βeta? | |
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βeta: 4 or 5 jackdaw nests in the cracks, no eggs at the moment but best give it a miss for a month or two |
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mcarobene | 2 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Can happily link pitches 2&3 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Can happily link pitches 2&3 |
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PaulJepson | 5 Feb, 2021 |
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βeta: Size 4 (BD) for p1 and Size 6 for p2 will settle any nerves. | ||
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βeta: Size 4 (BD) for p1 and Size 6 for p2 will settle any nerves. |
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Fraser kid | 14 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Said hard severe in the book which felt right, but the climbing, especially on the second pitch, is very awkward | ||
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βeta: Said hard severe in the book which felt right, but the climbing, especially on the second pitch, is very awkward |
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LouiseCowie | 6 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Bit of a concerning large wobbly block below the top on the left hand exit. Take care! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bit of a concerning large wobbly block below the top on the left hand exit. Take care! |
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Offwidth | 4 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: HS for the first pitch, unless you miss some hidden holds. Severe above. The 'awkward' middle pitch is a breeze when you know how and well protected to boot. Easier than Modern. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: HS for the first pitch, unless you miss some hidden holds. Severe above. The 'awkward' middle pitch is a breeze when you know how and well protected to boot. Easier than Modern. |
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LakesWinter | 27 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Major classic!!!!!! The first pitch is definitely the crux, the awkward crack on pitch 2 is not at all hard and the route should be HS 4b in comparison to other gritstone classics. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Major classic!!!!!! The first pitch is definitely the crux, the awkward crack on pitch 2 is not at all hard and the route should be HS 4b in comparison to other gritstone classics. |
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Robo | 19 Jul, 2002 |
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βeta: One of the most entertaining routes I've climbed. First pitch=jamming joy. 2nd pitch=offwidth grunting. Last pitch=exposure city! Must do for gritstone. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: One of the most entertaining routes I've climbed. First pitch=jamming joy. 2nd pitch=offwidth grunting. Last pitch=exposure city! Must do for gritstone. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)