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28m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine climb, varied and interesting. The first pitch is sweet though it is the second one that carries the full weight of the grade!
1) 5b, 14m. Climb the wall on crisp crimps (spaced gear) to the base of an elegant groove. Bridge up this to a good stance.
2) 5b, 14m. The solid jamming crack leads all too soon (unless you are pumped senseless) to easy ground. Exit boldly left up the wall or escape out right to easy ground. © Rockfax

FA. Tony Nicholls early 1960s.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Caff's Cool E1s List, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The List, Hen Cloud, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
GrahamD 6 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant varied climb spoilt only slightly by being easily escapable at the mid height ledge.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant varied climb spoilt only slightly by being easily escapable at the mid height ledge.
JTL 30 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: the jamming crack is easy at speed (ie solo)i have done harder 4c's in the peak, a nice varied route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the jamming crack is easy at speed (ie solo)i have done harder 4c's in the peak, a nice varied route
Toby Dunn 21 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: 5c?! hmmm... the jamming is easier than, say, matinee: a tad steep but with solid jams. pretty standard E1.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 5c?! hmmm... the jamming is easier than, say, matinee: a tad steep but with solid jams. pretty standard E1.
Nick Smith - Climbers 14 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent climbing, but that jamming crack is waay-pumpy towards the top!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent climbing, but that jamming crack is waay-pumpy towards the top!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 44
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 38
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Safety Net

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Roaches Skyline)