UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
18m. The steep cracks give a steep and superb pitch, it is solid Hen Cloud HVS value too! Layaways and jugs lead to a tricky entry into a narrow groove/chimney which requires a bit of udgery before things ease. Well protected throughout. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown, late 1950s.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The List, Hen Cloud, An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs, Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1, Hardest HVSs in the Peak

Feedback

User Date Notes
yarpen zigrin 6 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, quite pumping. As for the grade - I found this one definitely harder than the Slimline (also E1 5b), so... are you sure about this HVS, guys? ;)
βeta?
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βeta: Fantastic route, quite pumping. As for the grade - I found this one definitely harder than the Slimline (also E1 5b), so... are you sure about this HVS, guys? ;)
Chris Craggs 10 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Yup, probably going down to HVS 5b in the next edition! Chris
βeta?
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βeta: Yup, probably going down to HVS 5b in the next edition! Chris
Neil Ireson 7 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Completely agree with GrahamD, this is a another quintessential gritstone HVS 5b. Add Delstree and Bachelor's Left-hand to give your limestone E3 climbing friends a glorious day's introduction to the joys of gritstone.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Completely agree with GrahamD, this is a another quintessential gritstone HVS 5b. Add Delstree and Bachelor's Left-hand to give your limestone E3 climbing friends a glorious day's introduction to the joys of gritstone.
GrahamD 6 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Probably closer to 'traditional peak HVS 5b' than E1 in character. Slight shame about being able to step off the block on the left to start.
βeta?
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βeta: Probably closer to 'traditional peak HVS 5b' than E1 in character. Slight shame about being able to step off the block on the left to start.
MeMeMe 6 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Steep but steady. Noticed no nipple erosion or udgery. Fell off at start in comedy "lets pull this wire really hard to make sure it's in well" moment (it wasn't in well at all).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Steep but steady. Noticed no nipple erosion or udgery. Fell off at start in comedy "lets pull this wire really hard to make sure it's in well" moment (it wasn't in well at all).
Nick Smith - Climbers 14 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Superb climbing with some tricky moves. As I value my nipples ;) I found a double-hand jam worked nicely as an alternative at the top of the route!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb climbing with some tricky moves. As I value my nipples ;) I found a double-hand jam worked nicely as an alternative at the top of the route!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 96
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 93
Votes cast 91
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Helix

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Harston Rocks)
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