Climbs 16
Rocktype Culm
Altitude 37m a.s.l
Faces N
Tales of Don Juan - superb E1 on rarely visited Crag © Kafoozalem
A good North-facing slab with the usual Culm delights including some funky micro-boob features. Good extremes and only very slightly tidal.
Park at the Stanbury carpark the end of of track and follow the obvious path to meet the coast path at a bench, the crag is easily visible from here. Now the fun begins: Bash grimly through lacerating gorse for 60m to reach the ridge - first crux. Slide very carefully down slate scree, best on the left side of the bowl (facing out) as the right side has 100m fall potential down to the beach - second crux. Scramble more normally down the ridge to above the crag where there are two stakes and some static rope insitu to provide an anchor for a 25m abseil.
There is a much safer/saner approach to the bottom of the crag by an easy walk from the parking down to Stanbury Mouth, followed by some boulder hopping (described in latest guide).
The stakes at the top of the main slab are in a poor condition and the rope joining them is worse (September 2022). There is another abseil point from large blocks slightly further seaward. This currently (September 2022) has a newish looking sling and krab in place alongside rotting tat; it would be worth coming prepared to remove and replace belays and abseil anchors.
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