Climbs 16
Rocktype Culm
Altitude 37m a.s.l
Faces N

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Tales of Don Juan - superb E1 on rarely visited Crag © Kafoozalem

Crag features

A good North-facing slab with the usual Culm delights including some funky micro-boob features. Good extremes and only very slightly tidal.

Approach notes


Park at the Stanbury carpark the end of of track and follow the obvious path to meet the coast path at a bench, the crag is easily visible from here. Now the fun begins: Bash grimly through lacerating gorse for 60m to reach the ridge - first crux. Slide very carefully down slate scree, best on the left side of the bowl (facing out) as the right side has 100m fall potential down to the beach - second crux. Scramble more normally down the ridge to above the crag where there are two stakes and some static rope insitu to provide an anchor for a 25m abseil.

There is a much safer/saner approach to the bottom of the crag by an easy walk from the parking down to Stanbury Mouth, followed by some boulder hopping (described in latest guide).

The stakes at the top of the main slab are in a poor condition and the rope joining them is worse (September 2022). There is another abseil point from large blocks slightly further seaward. This currently (September 2022) has a newish looking sling and krab in place alongside rotting tat; it would be worth coming prepared to remove and replace belays and abseil anchors.



Effortless approach along the beach btw.
alan moore - 14/Apr/22
The belay stakes at top of crag are looking a little old and rusty. Left a screw gate on the tat above the crag as couldn’t manage to climb out using the shale death trap, so abseiled to base of crag and walked around to the beach.
Lumbering Oaf - 06/Apr/22
I have put a stake at the top of the approach. A 40m rope would take you safely down the otherwise pretty harrowing slope!
skelf - 07/Sep/17
And yes it would be worth considering the top peg on Volupte, at the moment it's pushing E4 for that runout above the two pegs and a couple of RPs, fantastic climbing though.
Fiend - 19/Jul/16
Whichever fcking bellend said "the slither is fine" on the crag notes needs a punch in the cock. Update sent to UKC and the moderator put it on. It's very sketchy and if you muff it on the right side facing out you're going the full 100m down to the beach. The crag itself is good although the missing pegs and two random pegs just left of CT make a complete farce of the current guidebook descriptions.
Fiend - 19/Jul/16
A really underrated crag and can be climbed at high tide what more do you want! Brilliant rock with some lovely subtle features. The pegs are going but don't really detract from the E1's and below however the new one on Volupte is much appreciated on that and Sensual Seas. Approach is not too bad and big thank you to the stake placers. What are people's thoughts on replacing volupte's top peg?
Macca_7 - 05/Oct/14
The top outs are seriously scary, makes climbs XS
Steve Woollard - 08/Sep/14
Excellent high tide venue. Two stakes and some tat joining them with a maillon to ab off. Great rock. The approach is a tad spicy. Could do with a hand rope by the top.
alexjz - 06/Aug/14
I agree with Kafoozalem. The initial scramble/slither is harrowing. Lots of loose rocks and some intimidating gaps opening up. Not sure if there hasn't been a large landslide. Needs a stake.
Dilwat - 11/Jul/14
An underrated crag. Coitionary Tales, Tales of Don Juan and Volupte are all worth two or more stars. The "slither" down the ridge is fairly serious and really needs a stake and grab rope.
Kafoozalem - 27/May/14
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