The full height of the Main Wall is ascended by this extremely bold and intimidating climb. Start at a thin vertical crack just right of the iron spike at the start of Second Coming.1) 6a, 28m. Climb the technical thin crack to a traverse line below overhanging rock. Go right passing ledges and a sapling to a belay on blocks.2) 6a, 45m. Move left along a narrow ledge/ramp and pull up to the break in angle where a hard move gains the slabby wall and a peg above - very serious! Move left, then up and right, to small ledges and a junction with Ten Years After. Climb the flared groove leftwards to a good narrow ledge and multiple bolts. Head past the bolts, step right and climb the wall to the top. A variation start to this pitch follows the groove and thin wall (4 bolts) just right of the original line. This meets the original at the small ledges shared with Ten Years After. This alters the grade to E4 6a. © Rockfax
Lakes Sport and Slate Top 50
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Dove Crag (Dovedale))
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