Rockfax Description
A monumental 60-move traverse of the main bluff. Sit start just right of a low cave at a low slot to the left of Undercurrent. Move rightward to a jug on the arete. Staying low, reverse the big move on Goat Boat to the low shelf. Follow Slopey Traverse to the wide central crack. Drop down this, then follow rising holds to gain Boats 'n' Hoes. Follow the traverse-line rightward, turn the right arete and reach a big jug. Finish easily up and right. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Whilst aspirant redpointers may appreciate Kundera's perspective on the human condition, it is doubtful that Kundera himself ever went through the unbearable misery of redpoint dieting. A stunning 60-move masterpiece, distilling everything good about Hope's Nose Beach into one draining traverse, and providing the perfect complement to the Upper Cliff's Stonechat Test.

Sit-start in a low slot down on the left of Undercurrent and just right of a low cave. Lurch rightwards to a jug on the arête then swing across to the low shelf (reversing the big move on Goat Boat) and hand traverse this, rising up to decent flatties just before the wide central crack. Drop down across this, then follow rising holds to gain and follow Boats 'n' Catalina. Where this exits upwards, keep traversing the crimp rail to turn the right arête of the cliff and reach a big ol' jug. Finish easily up and right. A no-hand rest is possible in the mid-point crack (either a knee-bar or, if the chockstone is absent, shove both legs in), but this is to miss the point of the whole thing... I mean, you might as well just stand on the beach for a few minutes instead, and take off about 3 grades.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZnG_nUDs60

FA. Alexis Perry 23/May/2020.

Feedback Always Hide βeta