Rockfax Description
The short wall is desperate. Easier for the tall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Desperate short wall with an easier solution (6b+ for the tall?) Stepping right of the bolts at the break. Go direct past every bolt for the true tick.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Gary Gibson | 10 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson solo | βeta? | |
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson solo |
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Lukem6 | 25 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: low 7a(6c++), there's a lot of beta options though. super direct feels quite steady. on repeat tries avoided all the good holds in the centre of buttress, makes it slightly more soft 7a. but a good intro to the grade, | βeta? | |
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βeta: low 7a(6c++), there's a lot of beta options though. super direct feels quite steady. on repeat tries avoided all the good holds in the centre of buttress, makes it slightly more soft 7a. but a good intro to the grade, |
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Christheclimber | 4 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Felt 7a to me, same as the vast majority of people have also voted for on hear. Undercut block on the right in the break is now rattling, beware. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Felt 7a to me, same as the vast majority of people have also voted for on hear. Undercut block on the right in the break is now rattling, beware. |
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JamieSparkes | 5 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Delightfully soft, maybe 6c? Does feel like half a 7a though, so maybe a good stepping stone i | ||
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βeta: Delightfully soft, maybe 6c? Does feel like half a 7a though, so maybe a good stepping stone i |
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AndyRogers | 27 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: I worked this climb for a long time so am very familiar with a solution talked about in the comments climbing right of the bolts then back left near the top on jugs - not worth 7a and missing out some of the hardest moves. Those wanting to claim the true 7a tick need to take the true super direct line past each bolt. I managed it ok despite my 5ft 10in height and -2 ape index so you don't need to be an orangutan. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I worked this climb for a long time so am very familiar with a solution talked about in the comments climbing right of the bolts then back left near the top on jugs - not worth 7a and missing out some of the hardest moves. Those wanting to claim the true 7a tick need to take the true super direct line past each bolt. I managed it ok despite my 5ft 10in height and -2 ape index so you don't need to be an orangutan. |
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rob34024 | 6 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Short but sweet. | ||
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βeta: Short but sweet. |
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Shaun O’Neill | 27 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Hold missing on the left above the break since last time I did this. Took some figuring out to get up the right hand side instead | ||
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βeta: Hold missing on the left above the break since last time I did this. Took some figuring out to get up the right hand side instead |
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riconn | 7 Feb, 2020 |
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βeta: Route originally had single snapgate crab on the belay bolt, now also has 25kN maillon for safer toproping. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Route originally had single snapgate crab on the belay bolt, now also has 25kN maillon for safer toproping. |
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KGshoots | 25 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Short route but packs a punch, if you don't have height on your side, try keeping to the right of the bolts to the first break. | ||
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βeta: Short route but packs a punch, if you don't have height on your side, try keeping to the right of the bolts to the first break. |
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Grade: 7a ***
(Chee Dale Upper)