UKC

Rockfax Description
Start on the right and climb the pillar and edge to gain the wall on the left. Direct is a powerful and often-climbed 6a+. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Some confusion over this route. The original route started up the block and arete on the right and pulled onto the face - this is a good well-balanced 5c. The new bolts pointed people at a direct start which adds a powerful 6a+ move over the initial bulge. Confusion over the name as well since it was called Consolation in Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) and Second Prize in BMC (2015).

Ticklists

Peak sport, Horseshoe Star Quality

Feedback

User Date Notes
Climbed69 4 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Don’t be fooled by the Rockfax description, I would grade the climb 6a overall as the first moves direct (the topo shows direct) are easily 6a.... the rest is not an easy plod either, mainly straightforward but a couple of tricky moves higher up too...
Show beta
βeta: Don’t be fooled by the Rockfax description, I would grade the climb 6a overall as the first moves direct (the topo shows direct) are easily 6a.... the rest is not an easy plod either, mainly straightforward but a couple of tricky moves higher up too...
Christheclimber 6 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: This route is clearly 6a+. It is bolted for the 6a+ moves over the small overhanging at the bottom. Please upgrade as it isn’t 5c.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route is clearly 6a+. It is bolted for the 6a+ moves over the small overhanging at the bottom. Please upgrade as it isn’t 5c.
andybirtwistle 21 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: This route appears to be what has been called Consolation(18) in Rockfax Peak Limestone but in that guide it gets graded 5+ and described as a plod which it certainly isn't. It is called Second Prize(49) and graded 5+ in the BMC Peak Limestone North which is also incorrect.Commiseration 5 seems to be mistaken for it.Left to right we have By Zeus,Spiteful Rain,Second Prize(Commiseration)and Consolation which has a 6a+ start.All very confusing!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route appears to be what has been called Consolation(18) in Rockfax Peak Limestone but in that guide it gets graded 5+ and described as a plod which it certainly isn't. It is called Second Prize(49) and graded 5+ in the BMC Peak Limestone North which is also incorrect.Commiseration 5 seems to be mistaken for it.Left to right we have By Zeus,Spiteful Rain,Second Prize(Commiseration)and Consolation which has a 6a+ start.All very confusing!
crag 25 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Tried twice. Couldnt get 1/4 of way up. Left my blood on the rock.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tried twice. Couldnt get 1/4 of way up. Left my blood on the rock.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
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