UKC

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The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.

In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end

19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.

Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag saferit has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.

Rockfax Description
Start on the right and climb the pillar and edge to gain the wall on the left. Direct is a powerful and often-climbed 6a+. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Some confusion over this route. The original route started up the block and arete on the right and pulled onto the face - this is a good well-balanced 5c. The new bolts pointed people at a direct start which adds a powerful 6a+ move over the initial bulge. Confusion over the name as well since it was called Consolation in Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) and Second Prize in BMC (2015).

Ticklists

Peak sport , Horseshoe Star Quality

Feedback

User Date Notes
RoryD 28 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: As others have stated, this feels a fair bit harder than 5C. There are two distinct boulder problems at around V4, one a few meters off the ground and another near the top. Would consider upping to 6A.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As others have stated, this feels a fair bit harder than 5C. There are two distinct boulder problems at around V4, one a few meters off the ground and another near the top. Would consider upping to 6A.
Climbed69 4 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Don’t be fooled by the Rockfax description, I would grade the climb 6a overall as the first moves direct (the topo shows direct) are easily 6a.... the rest is not an easy plod either, mainly straightforward but a couple of tricky moves higher up too...
Show beta
βeta: Don’t be fooled by the Rockfax description, I would grade the climb 6a overall as the first moves direct (the topo shows direct) are easily 6a.... the rest is not an easy plod either, mainly straightforward but a couple of tricky moves higher up too...
Christheclimber 6 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: This route is clearly 6a+. It is bolted for the 6a+ moves over the small overhanging at the bottom. Please upgrade as it isn’t 5c.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route is clearly 6a+. It is bolted for the 6a+ moves over the small overhanging at the bottom. Please upgrade as it isn’t 5c.
andybirtwistle 21 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: This route appears to be what has been called Consolation(18) in Rockfax Peak Limestone but in that guide it gets graded 5+ and described as a plod which it certainly isn't. It is called Second Prize(49) and graded 5+ in the BMC Peak Limestone North which is also incorrect.Commiseration 5 seems to be mistaken for it.Left to right we have By Zeus,Spiteful Rain,Second Prize(Commiseration)and Consolation which has a 6a+ start.All very confusing!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route appears to be what has been called Consolation(18) in Rockfax Peak Limestone but in that guide it gets graded 5+ and described as a plod which it certainly isn't. It is called Second Prize(49) and graded 5+ in the BMC Peak Limestone North which is also incorrect.Commiseration 5 seems to be mistaken for it.Left to right we have By Zeus,Spiteful Rain,Second Prize(Commiseration)and Consolation which has a 6a+ start.All very confusing!
crag 25 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Tried twice. Couldnt get 1/4 of way up. Left my blood on the rock.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tried twice. Couldnt get 1/4 of way up. Left my blood on the rock.

Logged Ascents

434 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Horseshoe Quarry

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 37
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
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