UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.

In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end

19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.

Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag saferit has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.

Rockfax Description
The square-cut arete has a mantel or two and a long stretch. Nice positions once on the arete. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Please avoid using the lower off on this route until the defective bolt is replaced. It maybe possible to transfer across and lower off the adjacent route.

FA. Gary Gibson 2001.

Ticklists

Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Horseshoe Star Quality

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dark Peak Paul 11 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Pillar in front of climb appears to have recently shed some blocks and has a loose "keystone" that is temping to pull on when starting the climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pillar in front of climb appears to have recently shed some blocks and has a loose "keystone" that is temping to pull on when starting the climb.
roger whetton 18 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Keeping to the arete for the final moves (and keeping out of the new route just next to it) definately felt F6a+.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Keeping to the arete for the final moves (and keeping out of the new route just next to it) definately felt F6a+.

Logged Ascents

283 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Horseshoe Quarry

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Coral Seas

Grade: 6a ***
(Harpur Hill Quarry)

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