UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.

In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end

19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.

Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag saferit has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A technical start and a finish that feels bolder than it is. There is also a finish to the right, which is harder, but less bold. © Rockfax

FA. Ian French, Mark Pretty.

Ticklists

Horseshoe 7's , Horseshoe Star Quality , Peak sport for mortals , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alan James - Rockfax 17 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: llanberis36 - I think you mean 3rd clip. Found a new method using a toe hook and reaching out left which completely avoids the crystal pocket. Worth doing Shot the Conformist to put a long draw on 3rd bolt.
Show beta
βeta: llanberis36 - I think you mean 3rd clip. Found a new method using a toe hook and reaching out left which completely avoids the crystal pocket. Worth doing Shot the Conformist to put a long draw on 3rd bolt.
llanberis36 13 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: great route, a bit of everything, second clip ok with good heal hook and 'good value' top moves.
Show beta
βeta: great route, a bit of everything, second clip ok with good heal hook and 'good value' top moves.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 46
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Handy Wallhole

Grade: 7a ***
(Dale Quarry (Wirksworth))

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