UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
Follow the corner then traverse the wall rightwards to a lower-off. With a few wires it feels about 6a+. © Rockfax

FA. Mark Pretty, Ian Jones 1985.

Feedback

User Date Notes
jordanramsden07 24 Aug Show βeta
βeta: The line for this route differs between the Rockfax print book and app. The book shows a more horizontal traverse to the final bolt of The Running Man while the app shows a more diagonal traverse through the last 2 bolts of Rage. The Running Man finish is much harder and bolder with the crux at the bolt and finishing with a runout, while the Rage finish is much easier and less bold with obvious climbing and close bolts. Not sure what the intended line is.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The line for this route differs between the Rockfax print book and app. The book shows a more horizontal traverse to the final bolt of The Running Man while the app shows a more diagonal traverse through the last 2 bolts of Rage. The Running Man finish is much harder and bolder with the crux at the bolt and finishing with a runout, while the Rage finish is much easier and less bold with obvious climbing and close bolts. Not sure what the intended line is.
johnwarburton 21 Oct, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Has anyone done my direct finish up the groove with 2 bolts to a new lower off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Has anyone done my direct finish up the groove with 2 bolts to a new lower off.
Chris the Tall 28 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The route now contains 2 bolts and a lower off, but no pegs. The first bolt is quite awkward to clip and could easily be avoided by purists, but does protect the crux. Found the route a bit disappointing, it may as well be fully bolted as it's nothing special. Admittedly the upper section was quite dusty following the recent monsoon - at least that's my excuse for the fall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The route now contains 2 bolts and a lower off, but no pegs. The first bolt is quite awkward to clip and could easily be avoided by purists, but does protect the crux. Found the route a bit disappointing, it may as well be fully bolted as it's nothing special. Admittedly the upper section was quite dusty following the recent monsoon - at least that's my excuse for the fall.
Richard 261 6 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Yes, shame about the bolts, which we reckon reduce Androids from E2 to E1. (Of course you don't have to clip them...) The lower off is out of reach unless you climb to it and not all climbing is vertically upwards if you get my meaning. However if you don't want to lower off, you're at the top anyway and a top out is very easy. The lower offs are really there for Rage F6b, another stonking route. Chain? What chain?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yes, shame about the bolts, which we reckon reduce Androids from E2 to E1. (Of course you don't have to clip them...) The lower off is out of reach unless you climb to it and not all climbing is vertically upwards if you get my meaning. However if you don't want to lower off, you're at the top anyway and a top out is very easy. The lower offs are really there for Rage F6b, another stonking route. Chain? What chain?
Sam Doyle 13 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I agree. Spoilt by the lower off and by the bolt. I decided not to clip it as it would have involved climbing slightly off route which made reaching the peg just before the lower off fairly exciting. Where has the other peg gone. Harder than E1 due to the run out but its easy climbing so E2 sounds fair.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree. Spoilt by the lower off and by the bolt. I decided not to clip it as it would have involved climbing slightly off route which made reaching the peg just before the lower off fairly exciting. Where has the other peg gone. Harder than E1 due to the run out but its easy climbing so E2 sounds fair.
Sam and will 14 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: not E3 and not E1 so definately E2, the chain aint there anymore so its a m assive reach to the lower off
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: not E3 and not E1 so definately E2, the chain aint there anymore so its a m assive reach to the lower off

Logged Ascents

111 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Horseshoe Quarry

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 30 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 20
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Left Unconquerable

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)

Loading Notifications...