UKC Logbook - 'Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep?'

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The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.

In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end

19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.

Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag safer, it has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.

Last update: 04/03/2024

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16m.

Rockfax Description
Follow the corner then traverse the wall rightwards to a lower-off. With a few wires it feels about 6a+. © Rockfax

FA. Mark Pretty, Ian Jones 1985.

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User	Date		Notes
johnwarburton	21 Oct, 2007	Show βeta βeta: Has anyone done my direct finish up the groove with 2 bolts to a new lower off.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Has anyone done my direct finish up the groove with 2 bolts to a new lower off.
Chris the Tall	28 Jun, 2007	Show βeta βeta: The route now contains 2 bolts and a lower off, but no pegs. The first bolt is quite awkward to clip and could easily be avoided by purists, but does protect the crux. Found the route a bit disappointing, it may as well be fully bolted as it's nothing special. Admittedly the upper section was quite dusty following the recent monsoon - at least that's my excuse for the fall.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The route now contains 2 bolts and a lower off, but no pegs. The first bolt is quite awkward to clip and could easily be avoided by purists, but does protect the crux. Found the route a bit disappointing, it may as well be fully bolted as it's nothing special. Admittedly the upper section was quite dusty following the recent monsoon - at least that's my excuse for the fall.
Richard 261	6 Nov, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Yes, shame about the bolts, which we reckon reduce Androids from E2 to E1. (Of course you don't have to clip them...) The lower off is out of reach unless you climb to it and not all climbing is vertically upwards if you get my meaning. However if you don't want to lower off, you're at the top anyway and a top out is very easy. The lower offs are really there for Rage F6b, another stonking route. Chain? What chain?	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Yes, shame about the bolts, which we reckon reduce Androids from E2 to E1. (Of course you don't have to clip them...) The lower off is out of reach unless you climb to it and not all climbing is vertically upwards if you get my meaning. However if you don't want to lower off, you're at the top anyway and a top out is very easy. The lower offs are really there for Rage F6b, another stonking route. Chain? What chain?
Sam Doyle	13 Aug, 2006	Show βeta βeta: I agree. Spoilt by the lower off and by the bolt. I decided not to clip it as it would have involved climbing slightly off route which made reaching the peg just before the lower off fairly exciting. Where has the other peg gone. Harder than E1 due to the run out but its easy climbing so E2 sounds fair.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I agree. Spoilt by the lower off and by the bolt. I decided not to clip it as it would have involved climbing slightly off route which made reaching the peg just before the lower off fairly exciting. Where has the other peg gone. Harder than E1 due to the run out but its easy climbing so E2 sounds fair.
Sam and will	14 Nov, 2005	Show βeta βeta: not E3 and not E1 so definately E2, the chain aint there anymore so its a m assive reach to the lower off	βeta?
Show beta βeta: not E3 and not E1 so definately E2, the chain aint there anymore so its a m assive reach to the lower off