UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the groove and keep right at the top. Has had a big rock removal after the upper flake started collapsing. The bolts aren't perfectly placed but the right-hand finish is now a good and more solid option. © Rockfax

FA. Al Churcher 1987.

Ticklists

Horseshoe Star Quality

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alan James - UKC and UKH 9 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Should now be cleaned up. I levered the whole flake off which was quite a trundle. It has left a lot of dirty rock but all the big blocks should now be gone. There may be some small fracture blocks left. Not sure about the new line since the old route used much of the flake. I think it will be possible left of the bolts on good clean rock for a while, finishing up the groove. In time the corner should clean up and that may be a better line finishing up the tower rather than the groove to the left.
βeta?
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βeta: Should now be cleaned up. I levered the whole flake off which was quite a trundle. It has left a lot of dirty rock but all the big blocks should now be gone. There may be some small fracture blocks left. Not sure about the new line since the old route used much of the flake. I think it will be possible left of the bolts on good clean rock for a while, finishing up the groove. In time the corner should clean up and that may be a better line finishing up the tower rather than the groove to the left.
Paul Baxter 24 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: As of Sun 23rd, still significant quantities of loose / poorly bonded rock where the loose block has come off. Several fist size lumps ready to fall, but potential for a larger chunk or to to go as well. I wouldn't be happy standing at the bottom when anyone's climbing
βeta?
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βeta: As of Sun 23rd, still significant quantities of loose / poorly bonded rock where the loose block has come off. Several fist size lumps ready to fall, but potential for a larger chunk or to to go as well. I wouldn't be happy standing at the bottom when anyone's climbing
TomCooksey 24 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed it on Sunday 23rd (having not seen comment from the previous day about block coming off) and found the flake about 3/4 of the way up is very lose with bits falling off it. Paul marked offending flake with "X"s as much as is possible with a chalk ball. Made belaying exciting.
βeta?
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βeta: Climbed it on Sunday 23rd (having not seen comment from the previous day about block coming off) and found the flake about 3/4 of the way up is very lose with bits falling off it. Paul marked offending flake with "X"s as much as is possible with a chalk ball. Made belaying exciting.
roger whetton 23 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Large very loose block removed from near the top on Saturday, May 23rd. Not sure just how stable things are now so perhaps best avoided...
βeta?
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βeta: Large very loose block removed from near the top on Saturday, May 23rd. Not sure just how stable things are now so perhaps best avoided...
Chris the Tall 26 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Not worth a star, it's not one of the better lines on the wall
βeta?
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βeta: Not worth a star, it's not one of the better lines on the wall
RichardMc 19 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nice sustained climbing. Just don't think about the about the top third of the route; climb it, enjoy it and sneak away before it all comes tumbling down.
βeta?
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βeta: Nice sustained climbing. Just don't think about the about the top third of the route; climb it, enjoy it and sneak away before it all comes tumbling down.
Cottie 13 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: New Guidebook topo has the line marked too far across to the left. Route starts on the face rather than in the groove. Be careful at the top - large block does not seem to be attached by much.
βeta?
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βeta: New Guidebook topo has the line marked too far across to the left. Route starts on the face rather than in the groove. Be careful at the top - large block does not seem to be attached by much.

Logged Ascents

305 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Horseshoe Quarry

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 37
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Carls Walk Pool

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Stoney Middleton)

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