UKC

35m.

Rockfax Description
A decent route which has cleaned up with traffic. If you split it the pitch grades are 4a, 5a. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Another massively loose outing up the wall to the right of the cave. This area was heavily worked at the beginning of 2010 - take extra care.

FA. Michael Hunt, Jane Livingstone 2000.

Ticklists

Horseshoe Star Quality

Feedback

User Date Notes
Wadam00 30 Aug Show βeta
βeta: The two staples at the top of the second pitch were said to be loose by two sets of climbers on Sunday August 30th 2022. I lead the route earlier but lowered off a pair of draws in the two bolt hangers below the two staples so I did not test them myself. My friend who cleaned the route also thought the staples were loose and he used the bolt hangers with some dump crabs to lower off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The two staples at the top of the second pitch were said to be loose by two sets of climbers on Sunday August 30th 2022. I lead the route earlier but lowered off a pair of draws in the two bolt hangers below the two staples so I did not test them myself. My friend who cleaned the route also thought the staples were loose and he used the bolt hangers with some dump crabs to lower off.
BigHairyIan 2 May Show βeta
βeta: It has some friable holds still. So probably hard to give it a consistent grade. For example one of the larger footholds that I used was clearly new from a bit of rock splitting away!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It has some friable holds still. So probably hard to give it a consistent grade. For example one of the larger footholds that I used was clearly new from a bit of rock splitting away!
gavjwp 25 Mar Show βeta
βeta: 16 quickdraws needed if you want to do in one pitch. Chain links on top anchor. Double rings at mid way belay.
βeta?
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βeta: 16 quickdraws needed if you want to do in one pitch. Chain links on top anchor. Double rings at mid way belay.
hetheringtom 30 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Top half an absolute horrorshow.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top half an absolute horrorshow.
Will8971 2 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Just above the lower off mid pitch is the crux, feels like a bit of over hang which has potential lost some rock. Move right around the area to climb the crack, good crimps and side pulls to the left. Probably a 6a move. Be careful, loose in places.
Show beta
βeta: Just above the lower off mid pitch is the crux, feels like a bit of over hang which has potential lost some rock. Move right around the area to climb the crack, good crimps and side pulls to the left. Probably a 6a move. Be careful, loose in places.
DannyC 5 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: did this on wednesday(4th may). big rock fall near the top meant we had to back off. depends really, if you like that sort of thing. i don't but can see why some would like its adventurousness(is that a word?). again wear helmets (and gumshields, and shoulder pads...)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: did this on wednesday(4th may). big rock fall near the top meant we had to back off. depends really, if you like that sort of thing. i don't but can see why some would like its adventurousness(is that a word?). again wear helmets (and gumshields, and shoulder pads...)
AndyH1710 5 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nice climbing up to about the 25-30m mark and then helmets are definately essential. From that point on rock will be raining down left, right and centre as half the cliff comes away in your hands.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice climbing up to about the 25-30m mark and then helmets are definately essential. From that point on rock will be raining down left, right and centre as half the cliff comes away in your hands.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 40
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
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