UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.

In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end

19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.

Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag saferit has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.

35m.

Rockfax Description
A decent route which has cleaned up with traffic. If you split it the pitch grades are 4a, 5a. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Another massively loose outing up the wall to the right of the cave. This area was heavily worked at the beginning of 2010 - take extra care.

FA. Michael Hunt, Jane Livingstone 2000.

Ticklists

Horseshoe Star Quality

Feedback

User Date Notes
Phil Murray 31 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: There seems to be a "choice" of bolts on this route, so the way to go at the crux is unclear. Not a route for the inexperienced or nervous / 5a their limit.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There seems to be a "choice" of bolts on this route, so the way to go at the crux is unclear. Not a route for the inexperienced or nervous / 5a their limit.
Wadam00 30 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The two staples at the top of the second pitch were said to be loose by two sets of climbers on Sunday August 30th 2022. I lead the route earlier but lowered off a pair of draws in the two bolt hangers below the two staples so I did not test them myself. My friend who cleaned the route also thought the staples were loose and he used the bolt hangers with some dump crabs to lower off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The two staples at the top of the second pitch were said to be loose by two sets of climbers on Sunday August 30th 2022. I lead the route earlier but lowered off a pair of draws in the two bolt hangers below the two staples so I did not test them myself. My friend who cleaned the route also thought the staples were loose and he used the bolt hangers with some dump crabs to lower off.
BigHairyIan 2 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: It has some friable holds still. So probably hard to give it a consistent grade. For example one of the larger footholds that I used was clearly new from a bit of rock splitting away!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It has some friable holds still. So probably hard to give it a consistent grade. For example one of the larger footholds that I used was clearly new from a bit of rock splitting away!
gavjwp 25 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 16 quickdraws needed if you want to do in one pitch. Chain links on top anchor. Double rings at mid way belay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 16 quickdraws needed if you want to do in one pitch. Chain links on top anchor. Double rings at mid way belay.
hetheringtom 30 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Top half an absolute horrorshow.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top half an absolute horrorshow.
Will8971 2 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Just above the lower off mid pitch is the crux, feels like a bit of over hang which has potential lost some rock. Move right around the area to climb the crack, good crimps and side pulls to the left. Probably a 6a move. Be careful, loose in places.
Show beta
βeta: Just above the lower off mid pitch is the crux, feels like a bit of over hang which has potential lost some rock. Move right around the area to climb the crack, good crimps and side pulls to the left. Probably a 6a move. Be careful, loose in places.
DannyC 5 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: did this on wednesday(4th may). big rock fall near the top meant we had to back off. depends really, if you like that sort of thing. i don't but can see why some would like its adventurousness(is that a word?). again wear helmets (and gumshields, and shoulder pads...)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: did this on wednesday(4th may). big rock fall near the top meant we had to back off. depends really, if you like that sort of thing. i don't but can see why some would like its adventurousness(is that a word?). again wear helmets (and gumshields, and shoulder pads...)
AndyH1710 5 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nice climbing up to about the 25-30m mark and then helmets are definately essential. From that point on rock will be raining down left, right and centre as half the cliff comes away in your hands.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice climbing up to about the 25-30m mark and then helmets are definately essential. From that point on rock will be raining down left, right and centre as half the cliff comes away in your hands.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Horseshoe Quarry

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Voting
High 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 43
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