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25/01/24 NOTICE - A rockfall has occurred on the white pillar of rock on the left as you enter the main quarry floor, just before the pond. An area of loose rock was dislodged by climbers investigating new route possibilities. Rock behind which cams were placed gave way under very little load and without warning. Please do not climb on this area of rock.

This incident highlights how loose some areas of the quarry are, especially away from established lines. With this in mind it is requested that anyone wishing to add routes within the quarry always discuss plans with the BMC in advance.

 

The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.

In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end

19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.

Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag saferit has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.

20m.

Rockfax Description
The main arete gives good, well-positioned climbing on its right-hand side finishing up the crack at the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Can be climbed "a cheval" with no use of the crack to the right.

FA. Gary Gibson 2001.

Ticklists

Peak limestone north graded list - sport , The Horseshoe Top 15 Challenge , Horseshoe Star Quality

Feedback

User Date Notes
nickcanute 20 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: This route uses the arete, moves onto the left side of the arete then back again. The crack is Knight Rider HVS 5b (now f5+)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route uses the arete, moves onto the left side of the arete then back again. The crack is Knight Rider HVS 5b (now f5+)
AndyRogers 2 Dec, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Both variations are worthwhile. The crak offering big moves on huge jugs. The arete has 4 times the holds and better clipping positions but requires a bit more technique. Both seem about 6a.
Show beta
βeta: Both variations are worthwhile. The crak offering big moves on huge jugs. The arete has 4 times the holds and better clipping positions but requires a bit more technique. Both seem about 6a.
Faye Hine 21 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Used the crack. Top seems impossible without crack
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Used the crack. Top seems impossible without crack
Fraser kid 8 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I used the crack, so sue me!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I used the crack, so sue me!
jb2006 13 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Varied and worth the star if you use the crack (Knight Rider?) but not if you take the arete direct
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Varied and worth the star if you use the crack (Knight Rider?) but not if you take the arete direct
Albie 30 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: There appears to be much confusion about the actual route here. Personally I went for that right hand crack , and I considered that to be plenty tough enough.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There appears to be much confusion about the actual route here. Personally I went for that right hand crack , and I considered that to be plenty tough enough.
Dan-gerMouse 5 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Surely not, there are holds on the edge of the arete that you could use of course! 6a, reasonable climbing at its grade
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Surely not, there are holds on the edge of the arete that you could use of course! 6a, reasonable climbing at its grade
Chris the Tall 17 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Avoiding the crack on the right (as mentioned in the guide) requires discipline and blinkers and is far harder than 6a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Avoiding the crack on the right (as mentioned in the guide) requires discipline and blinkers and is far harder than 6a.
MeMeMe 3 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Not a good route, very unsatisfying somehow. Fiend is right, the rock crystals are the best bit about it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not a good route, very unsatisfying somehow. Fiend is right, the rock crystals are the best bit about it.

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 184
Votes cast 161
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Coral Seas

Grade: 6a ***
(Harpur Hill Quarry)

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