UKC

Rockfax Description
A non-route now superseded by its neighbours. It was originally an escape route from Lost Monolith. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Follow Lost Monolith to below the bulge, then step right into a groove. Either climb to a high staple and then step right to easier ground or move right earlier and then clip the staple. Climb up and left to the belay.

FA. Mark Pretty, Ian French 1986.

Feedback

User Date Notes
CPH 4 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Worth doing actually! Also, I suspect most Public Logbook ascents recorded here are actually of Sound as a Carp (not surprising given past poor recording of this part of the crag).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Worth doing actually! Also, I suspect most Public Logbook ascents recorded here are actually of Sound as a Carp (not surprising given past poor recording of this part of the crag).
RMiller 16 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Take looong draws or extenders - rope drag is real!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Take looong draws or extenders - rope drag is real!
CPH 13 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The 1987 guide says 'Follow Lost Monolith to the last bolt, step right, and climb a shallow groove...' So it's an alternative finish to Lost Monolith. There is now a bolt high up in the groove where a good crimp allows you then to step right. The 2015 BMC guide therefore has the route drawn incorrectly. Route no. 25 on page 109 will be the line of Sound as a Carp which will finish up the same groove after stepping left. Direct over the overlap is the finish of Harvey Wallbanger. Sound as a Carp would be a good sport route with 2 extra bolts.
Show beta
βeta: The 1987 guide says 'Follow Lost Monolith to the last bolt, step right, and climb a shallow groove...' So it's an alternative finish to Lost Monolith. There is now a bolt high up in the groove where a good crimp allows you then to step right. The 2015 BMC guide therefore has the route drawn incorrectly. Route no. 25 on page 109 will be the line of Sound as a Carp which will finish up the same groove after stepping left. Direct over the overlap is the finish of Harvey Wallbanger. Sound as a Carp would be a good sport route with 2 extra bolts.
Alan James - Rockfax 25 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: This is around 6a now with existing bolts. They aren't in a straight line but you are never really run out. No extra gear is needed.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is around 6a now with existing bolts. They aren't in a straight line but you are never really run out. No extra gear is needed.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Horseshoe Quarry

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Coral Seas

Grade: 6a ***
(Harpur Hill Quarry)

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