Rockfax Description
The blunt central arete has a hard move at the top. Can feel harder if you go very direct. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
It seems the belay has been replaced and is no longer an issue, although it may be further right so sneaking around the arete is no longer an option.
The crux is at the top going past the last bolt to the belay - at least 6c, possibly 6c+.
FA. Mark Pretty, Sean Coffey, John Godding 1986.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tom_Ball | 30 Mar, 2021 |
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βeta: This route is well bolted and the climbing is good. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This route is well bolted and the climbing is good. |
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Fraser kid | 25 Feb, 2021 |
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βeta: Last move very hard to read. Fairly easy when you know how. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Last move very hard to read. Fairly easy when you know how. |
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Alan James - Rockfax | 29 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: The top move really is 6b+ if climbing on the right of the arete but you have to do it using the exact holds otherwise it feels utterly desperate. The bolts are perfectly placed for this sequence, which is the correct sequence of the original route and is by far the best line. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The top move really is 6b+ if climbing on the right of the arete but you have to do it using the exact holds otherwise it feels utterly desperate. The bolts are perfectly placed for this sequence, which is the correct sequence of the original route and is by far the best line. |
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nickcanute | 26 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Another route spoilt by hopeless rebolting by persons who didnt know the climb.. lower off wrong place. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Another route spoilt by hopeless rebolting by persons who didnt know the climb.. lower off wrong place. |
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Christheclimber | 28 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: Much harder than 6b if climbed right of arête. Poor description as the crux isn’t the middle section, it’s at the top going past the last bolt to the new belay. Felt very hard at least 6c. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Much harder than 6b if climbed right of arête. Poor description as the crux isn’t the middle section, it’s at the top going past the last bolt to the new belay. Felt very hard at least 6c. |
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Frank the Husky | 23 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: ...the last few moves are very hard: they felt like english 6b! | βeta? | |
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βeta: ...the last few moves are very hard: they felt like english 6b! |
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Chris the Tall | 15 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: The final moves are far harder than anything else on the route - even at 6'4" it's a desperate lunge. Good route but the single bolt belay is a definate worry. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The final moves are far harder than anything else on the route - even at 6'4" it's a desperate lunge. Good route but the single bolt belay is a definate worry. |
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Grade: 6b+ ***
(Horseshoe Quarry)