UKC

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The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.

In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end

19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.

Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag saferit has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.

Rockfax Description
Amble up the shallow groove. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Shallow flake/groove line with a tricky overlap high up
At least 4+

Ticklists

Peak sport , The Horseshoe Top 15 Challenge , Horseshoe Star Quality

Feedback

User Date Notes
RoryD 28 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: As others have said, something is desperately wrong with the grade here. Rockfax give it 4C, we thought it closer to 5C. Either some holds have broken, or it's woefully under-graded. It's also polished which adds to the spice. And don't forget that on damp days, the wet clay in the cracks is like sticking your hand into a toilet - presumably what gives the area it's charming name. In all, not a bad climb, but nowhere near 4C.
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βeta: As others have said, something is desperately wrong with the grade here. Rockfax give it 4C, we thought it closer to 5C. Either some holds have broken, or it's woefully under-graded. It's also polished which adds to the spice. And don't forget that on damp days, the wet clay in the cracks is like sticking your hand into a toilet - presumably what gives the area it's charming name. In all, not a bad climb, but nowhere near 4C.
StockportAl 28 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: For a 4 it was pretty hard in places, Adam said it was harder than the 5 to the left, didn\'t have time to have a go at that one. Had a few rests at mid height
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βeta: For a 4 it was pretty hard in places, Adam said it was harder than the 5 to the left, didn't have time to have a go at that one. Had a few rests at mid height
RHINOS 26 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with many here. mostly a polished 4+ well bolted one move at 3/4 height crux more like 5/5+ a flake at the top sounds a bit hollow.
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βeta: Agree with many here. mostly a polished 4+ well bolted one move at 3/4 height crux more like 5/5+ a flake at the top sounds a bit hollow.
Rob Jarratt 30 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely a lot harder than the F4 in the definitive guide.
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βeta: Definitely a lot harder than the F4 in the definitive guide.
TurnipPrincess 26 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Sandbag.
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βeta: Sandbag.
Aither2108 3 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Has definetly had holds pulled off and you get to a point 3/4th up where feet and hands which would usually be jugs are completely smooth. Had to bail out despite easily leading harder grades to the side. Too popular, has become harder then the 5A next to it. Would avoid.
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βeta: Has definetly had holds pulled off and you get to a point 3/4th up where feet and hands which would usually be jugs are completely smooth. Had to bail out despite easily leading harder grades to the side. Too popular, has become harder then the 5A next to it. Would avoid.
Antnay 10 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Surprised on how hard the climb was. Maybe some of the limestone has broken off at some point? 5b I would say.
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βeta: Surprised on how hard the climb was. Maybe some of the limestone has broken off at some point? 5b I would say.
Shane1990 26 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Quite polished in places.
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βeta: Quite polished in places.
Alan James - Rockfax 20 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Big holds to a steep and airy finish. Decent route.
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βeta: Big holds to a steep and airy finish. Decent route.
Helical456 12 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Nails for the grade, dont use this as a warm up like i did, as mentioned before probably due to the polish and bromen holds
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βeta: Nails for the grade, dont use this as a warm up like i did, as mentioned before probably due to the polish and bromen holds
SarahSharps 17 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pile of polished thuggy crap. Beginners avoid
βeta?
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βeta: Pile of polished thuggy crap. Beginners avoid
pglockwo 8 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely feels harder than 4c, the 5 to the right was an easier climb.
βeta?
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βeta: Definitely feels harder than 4c, the 5 to the right was an easier climb.
Alex Skerratt 30 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Completely sandbagged route due to polish and possibly holds breaking off, have done 6a's that are easier.
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βeta: Completely sandbagged route due to polish and possibly holds breaking off, have done 6a's that are easier.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 95
Votes cast 64
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
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