UKC

10m.

Rockfax Description
One of the best of Dartmoor's fun micro classics. Short, sharp and exciting. Start on boulders under the ledge below the right-slanting flake that strikes out from the base of a steep offwidth. Move onto the ledge and make a tough swing out right before continuing along the flake rail to a tricky move up a short crack to finish. Fun. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Once voted the best VS in the country! Perhaps a somewhat bold statement but a very good short route none the less. Suspension Flake goes up the huge jug filled flake on the Eastern face of the Perched Block. Those with confidence will lock their arms out and find this easy, but otherwise intimidating and pumpy!

Step onto a ledge then swing wildly on to the flake line to finish up a final short crack. A fine line which is over far to soon!

Birds nesting in starting crack best to keep clear

Geoff Sutton 16/Aug/1954.

Ticklists

100 More Classic British VS Climbs, West Country Climbs, Dartmoor punter fifty (ish) routes in a day, 40 For 40, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, University of Exeter must tick's, Moving to Devon, South West Classic VS's, 2020 Vision, 2020/21 Trips, The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200., 31 By 31

Feedback

User Date Notes
hp8g12 23 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Protected with two bombers DMM Dragons: red in the vertical crack before the traverse (needs hella extending) and a green in the flake before the final (wet!) moves.
Show beta
βeta: Protected with two bombers DMM Dragons: red in the vertical crack before the traverse (needs hella extending) and a green in the flake before the final (wet!) moves.
petegruf 18 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: One bit of gear. Would have been enough had I not tried to stand on the flake. Bad idea. Could have had a nasty ending.
Show beta
βeta: One bit of gear. Would have been enough had I not tried to stand on the flake. Bad idea. Could have had a nasty ending.
Peter271263 28 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route
Show beta
βeta: Great route

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
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Route of Interest

Shamrock

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Lundy)
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