25m. An exciting and magnificent climb up steep rock, with holds aplenty. Start just left of the centre of the crag directly below a double overhang. Take a deep breath and climb the slab to a chimney, Thruch up this to the first roof and a lovely runner placement. Bypass the roof to the right and pull up on crimps to the small ledge. Understand why cams are also called friends before committing to a series of jams and laybacks as you climb the crack past second roof. Using the tree root is a naughty way to avoid the mantle move, and should be avoided at all costs. Finish up an easy groove to a choice of excellent belays. Si Lynch 2009.

Ticklists

Highland Outcrops South ***, Inverness and Moray Rock, Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK, Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2

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High E1
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High 5b
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Votes cast 46
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
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Route of Interest

The Magic Crack

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Cairn Gorm - Stob Coire an t-Sneachda)
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