An amazing climb which takes a wild line up the seaward end of the wall. The conditions of this route seem to vary from slippery and unclimbable to surprisingly dry. Take a lot of small wires.1) 6a, 25m. Climb the ramp then step down and traverse left with difficulty. Move up the ramp above into a runnel and squirm up this to a tricky exit. Belay on a big thread in the groove above.2) 5c, 10m. Undercut wildly rightwards around the roof, then step back left and look down at your second. Finish straight up to a big natural thread on the right. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, T.Penning 15/Apr/1984.
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Grade: E5 6a ***
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