UKC

Rockfax Description
Originally this route started in the same place as Magazine People, but it is much better to start at the arete just left of Shape-Up (or the slab just left with a thread at 6a). This gives a good enjoyable pitch at a more even grade. From the top of the arete make tricky moves up onto a ramp, then continue to reach a traverse line under the roof which is passed by puzzling moves on its left-hand side. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson 29/May/1983.

Ticklists

Huntsmans Leap, Ultimate E3 ticklist

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User Date Notes
Chad123 10 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Felt more like a two star E3 to me too. The top section is okay if you use your feet, but there is a lower cruxy move near the top of the arete and above your gear which would result in a reasonable fall.
βeta?
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βeta: Felt more like a two star E3 to me too. The top section is okay if you use your feet, but there is a lower cruxy move near the top of the arete and above your gear which would result in a reasonable fall.
drcorbasisgod 9 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Having spent a week in Pembroke and lead 11 E2s, I can honestly say this was the hardest. But what a route! That top section by the peg/bolt is amazing, and there are plenty of 5c moves.
βeta?
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βeta: Having spent a week in Pembroke and lead 11 E2s, I can honestly say this was the hardest. But what a route! That top section by the peg/bolt is amazing, and there are plenty of 5c moves.
Paz 2 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Point taken, but I think E3 overall for the route is fair, as (starting up the arete) you've got three hard (5c) moves, including a sustained gripping little section at the top, above the peg, above the threads which though are backupable and good but a fall here would still be sizeable and serious (- could you lower back down on 50s?) plus (no shit) it's in the Leap.
βeta?
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βeta: Point taken, but I think E3 overall for the route is fair, as (starting up the arete) you've got three hard (5c) moves, including a sustained gripping little section at the top, above the peg, above the threads which though are backupable and good but a fall here would still be sizeable and serious (- could you lower back down on 50s?) plus (no shit) it's in the Leap.
Alan James - UKC and UKH 23 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This route is the one which goes up the arete which is only 5c. If you start direct past the thread at the bottom, just left of the arete, then it is worth 6a but a bit artificial. Either way the top move is still quite tricky but not 6a nor is it worth E3 since the old threads can be backed up.
βeta?
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βeta: This route is the one which goes up the arete which is only 5c. If you start direct past the thread at the bottom, just left of the arete, then it is worth 6a but a bit artificial. Either way the top move is still quite tricky but not 6a nor is it worth E3 since the old threads can be backed up.
Ged Desforges 4 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: not sure why this is in extreme rock, but quite good anyway. worth E3 i reckon. take a knife with you-loads of decent threads that are choked with shitty old stuff that you wouldnt want to trust, but stops you putting good stuff in. good climbing, but shitty top-out
βeta?
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βeta: not sure why this is in extreme rock, but quite good anyway. worth E3 i reckon. take a knife with you-loads of decent threads that are choked with shitty old stuff that you wouldnt want to trust, but stops you putting good stuff in. good climbing, but shitty top-out

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 69
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 52
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Splendour

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Saddle Bay)
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