Rockfax Description
Originally this route started in the same place as Magazine People, but it is much better to start at the arete just left of Shape-Up (or the slab just left with a thread at 6a). This gives a good enjoyable pitch at a more even grade. From the top of the arete make tricky moves up onto a ramp, then continue to reach a traverse line under the roof which is passed by puzzling moves on its left-hand side. © Rockfax
FA. G.Gibson 29/May/1983.
Ticklists
Huntsmans Leap , Ultimate E3 ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chad123 | 10 May, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Felt more like a two star E3 to me too. The top section is okay if you use your feet, but there is a lower cruxy move near the top of the arete and above your gear which would result in a reasonable fall. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Felt more like a two star E3 to me too. The top section is okay if you use your feet, but there is a lower cruxy move near the top of the arete and above your gear which would result in a reasonable fall. |
||||
| drcorbasisgod | 9 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Having spent a week in Pembroke and lead 11 E2s, I can honestly say this was the hardest. But what a route! That top section by the peg/bolt is amazing, and there are plenty of 5c moves. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Having spent a week in Pembroke and lead 11 E2s, I can honestly say this was the hardest. But what a route! That top section by the peg/bolt is amazing, and there are plenty of 5c moves. |
||||
| Paz | 2 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Point taken, but I think E3 overall for the route is fair, as (starting up the arete) you've got three hard (5c) moves, including a sustained gripping little section at the top, above the peg, above the threads which though are backupable and good but a fall here would still be sizeable and serious (- could you lower back down on 50s?) plus (no shit) it's in the Leap. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Point taken, but I think E3 overall for the route is fair, as (starting up the arete) you've got three hard (5c) moves, including a sustained gripping little section at the top, above the peg, above the threads which though are backupable and good but a fall here would still be sizeable and serious (- could you lower back down on 50s?) plus (no shit) it's in the Leap. |
||||
| Alan James - UKC and UKH | 23 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: This route is the one which goes up the arete which is only 5c. If you start direct past the thread at the bottom, just left of the arete, then it is worth 6a but a bit artificial. Either way the top move is still quite tricky but not 6a nor is it worth E3 since the old threads can be backed up. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: This route is the one which goes up the arete which is only 5c. If you start direct past the thread at the bottom, just left of the arete, then it is worth 6a but a bit artificial. Either way the top move is still quite tricky but not 6a nor is it worth E3 since the old threads can be backed up. |
||||
| GDes | 4 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: not sure why this is in extreme rock, but quite good anyway. worth E3 i reckon. take a knife with you-loads of decent threads that are choked with shitty old stuff that you wouldnt want to trust, but stops you putting good stuff in. good climbing, but shitty top-out | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: not sure why this is in extreme rock, but quite good anyway. worth E3 i reckon. take a knife with you-loads of decent threads that are choked with shitty old stuff that you wouldnt want to trust, but stops you putting good stuff in. good climbing, but shitty top-out |
||||
Logged Ascents
297 users have logged this
Guidebooks for Huntsman's Leap
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
Fickle Heart
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Raming Hole Area)