UKC

45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An amazing route with a leg splitting first pitch. The rock can be drier than it looks, which is lucky. Start as for Release the Bats.
1) 6a, 25m. From a ledge at 3m traverse right and then climb a line of holds up and leftwards. (Possible belay at a large nut slot). Move left then back right to reach a ledge above the belay. Mantle onto this and climb the blank wall above on hidden holds. Where these run out, do the splits across the Leap, or move up a little higher and back and foot it up to belay on the boulder choke.
2) 5b, 20m. Step left over a bulge to join and finish up The Honey Monster, or finish direct from the boulder choke at around 5a. © Rockfax

FA. C.Waddy, A.Popp 10/May/1987.

Ticklists

Huntsmans Leap, The Best of Pembroke, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ged Desforges 29 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: you dont need to do the splits at all. just make another move or two on good holds and you can back and foot between the walls. Awesome route, start fairly serious up the good nut slot. About 5a second pitch if you go direct up from the boulder choke instead of traversing out left. seems a bit more logical
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: you dont need to do the splits at all. just make another move or two on good holds and you can back and foot between the walls. Awesome route, start fairly serious up the good nut slot. About 5a second pitch if you go direct up from the boulder choke instead of traversing out left. seems a bit more logical

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Route of Interest

Dogs of Hoare

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Trevallen Cliff)
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