A superb route that is low in the grade. The first half is serious and the big move at the top is entirely dependent on reach, varying from 5c for the very tall to desperate 6b for shorties. Start from the block and move left to the crack. Climb back rightwards to a red pancake (runners) then make bold-but-easy moves left back into the crack. Climb easily up above heading back rightwards to the bulge. Pull over this into a big hole then up to a ledge in a corner. A belay here makes it easy to keep an eye on your second. © Rockfax
FA. J. de Montjoye, H.Sharp 07/Jan/1984.
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5
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