UKC

Rockfax Description
A superb route that is low in the grade. The first half is serious and the big move at the top is entirely dependent on reach, varying from 5c for the very tall to desperate 6b for shorties. Start from the block and move left to the crack. Climb back rightwards to a red pancake (runners) then make bold-but-easy moves left back into the crack. Climb easily up above heading back rightwards to the bulge. Pull over this into a big hole then up to a ledge in a corner. A belay here makes it easy to keep an eye on your second. © Rockfax

FA. J. de Montjoye, H.Sharp 07/Jan/1984.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

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User Date Notes
John Alcock 14 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Crux depends which holds are dry. At my height (5,6) it's solid 6b and hard to get first go. Big Mark Hopkins said it was 5c for him as he could reach straight to the thank god hold. I have to do an all out slap off a poor intermediate.
 
Show beta
βeta: Crux depends which holds are dry. At my height (5,6) it's solid 6b and hard to get first go. Big Mark Hopkins said it was 5c for him as he could reach straight to the thank god hold. I have to do an all out slap off a poor intermediate.
Ged Desforges 29 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: cant see how the crux is height dependent. If you cant reach the hold, move your feet up higher, footholds everywhere. Not even close to 6b unless your about 3 foot tall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: cant see how the crux is height dependent. If you cant reach the hold, move your feet up higher, footholds everywhere. Not even close to 6b unless your about 3 foot tall.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 50
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 44
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Tasmanian Devil

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Greenham Common)
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