Rockfax Description
Climb the very thin wall to the below the right end of the overhang and then stretch for the eye. It does continue to the top as a route but is much easier. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The blank looking wall below the 'eye' pocket feature. Gain two thumb-sprag pinches, work your feet up, before making a tough move to a tilted three finger edge and use this to pull through to the break. Then around the lip to the central 'eye' and use this and adjacent good holds to surmount the lip and up. Morpho: Font 6B-C.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| C Rettiw | 4 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Gutted that crag mods unilaterally gave this a bouldering grade... Anyway, it's only UK 5c for the tall; UK 6a for those who can't lank the smooth crimp. Font 6a+ seems about right. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Gutted that crag mods unilaterally gave this a bouldering grade... Anyway, it's only UK 5c for the tall; UK 6a for those who can't lank the smooth crimp. Font 6a+ seems about right. |
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| Ollie G | 18 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Foot placement immedietly as or after starting is very important to allow you to reach for a crimpy sloper with your right hand which you then pull up on, sort feet again and then bang your left hand in the horizontal crack at the base of the overhang, I aimed right of a couple of flowers coming out that crack which helped. Match then get left hand into that \'cyclops\' eye and finish the route, very easy from that point on. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Foot placement immedietly as or after starting is very important to allow you to reach for a crimpy sloper with your right hand which you then pull up on, sort feet again and then bang your left hand in the horizontal crack at the base of the overhang, I aimed right of a couple of flowers coming out that crack which helped. Match then get left hand into that 'cyclops' eye and finish the route, very easy from that point on. |
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Route of Interest
The Sad Apple
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(The Diamond Crag)