Climbs 71
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Rose Corner, Ippikins Rock © caradoc

Crag features

Reaching a maximum height of 20m this outcrop provides a small concentration of generally steep routes which are really only of interest to local climbers. Any pegs and threads should be regarded as suspect and checked before relying on them. There are three separate areas:- Below the viewpoint/tarmaced lay-by Ivy Groove is a good Diff and Major's Wall a short sharp E1, through the gate in front of the pub are Little Job HS and the more challenging Odd Job VS, between these is the main wall where Dead Good HVS and Live Evil E3 are the most popular harder climbs.  


Approach notes

Approach via the B4371 from Much Wenlock. Parking is available in three individual lay-bys above the crag. The main wall is accessed from the lay-by just before the Wenlock Edge Inn. There is parking for several cars on the short track leading to the field above the crag. The pub cark park is currently blocked off and there are plans to build on it. Access to the belays on top of the main wall is along the cliff top through the trees and not over the fence. The routes on Job Buttress can be climbed by agreement with the National Trust and are worth a visit. Walk down the field above the main wall and through the gate in front of the pub to find this area. If you are up for adventure some routes have been climbed on the other side of the road opposite the Major's wall area. You will need a machete, strong trousers, a hard hat and a sense of adventure to enjoy them.  

No Access Issues

Do not approach either the Main Area from Job Buttress, or vice versa, along the base of the crag. Job Buttress is accessible from the field at the top. The Main Area is accessible via a stile and path at the layby. More detailed descriptions of these approaches are available in the guidebook - West Mids Rock, Doug Kerr, published by Cicerone Press in 1995.

A Brilliant crag. Was chuffed to come across it on UKC and spend a couple of hours there. Cant believe its not more popular. I only visited main wall but there are some smashing routes there covering low to mid grades. Well worth a visit. Live Evil is safe enough for a lead from the top rope inspection and the thread can be placed with a think sling.
Stanners - 27/Jun/15
Majors wall, quiet over grown, not traffic, d enough. First 5 climbs difficulg to get to due to growth
Supadeano86 - 03/Sep/13
this crag area is know as wenlock edge you can access from pub car park but there are laybys a bit closer
theNocker - 11/Aug/13
just visited today, excellent top roping little walking to do you are on top of the cliff to start just walk round the side on easy paths plenty of trees to set up. going back regularly as of today.
theNocker - 11/Aug/13
Visited crag the weekend did some roped soloing, picked off some of the easier rock, will definatly return.
Supadeano86 - 22/Aug/12
Hi guys thinking of visiting this crag is it visable from the road/lay bys or is there some walking to do? Cheers.
Supadeano86 - 13/Aug/12
Good local climb for me both trad and top roping options. Keep a look out for bird nests as there are a few at the moment so have to be sensible when choosing routes.
Ad Shaw - 31/May/12
Has recently been cleaned/cleared by Wrekin Mountaineering Club, thanks guys! The direct start to live evil is actually in the guide as 6a and is a bit polished. Great belays at the top and fairly good rock, although a bit greasy for limestone. Worth a visit if you're fed up of sandstone.
smallerrich - 04/Mar/08
Led Odd Job VS, and Dead Good HVS, on a cold clear day in Nov 2006, both excellent climbs but suffering a little from neglect and underuse. Dead Good is especially enjoyable; pretty fair at HVS; long, steep and strenuous but always a good hold when you need it. Highly recomended!! The rest of the crag looks as though it may become more usable as the summer vegetation begins to die off, and as for the belay positions from the top of Wenlock Edge, simply superb.
Peakphil - 08/Nov/06
There's some nice bouldery starts to some of the problems around the cave area. Currently working on a sit start at the back of the cave and monkeying out completeley horizontally then a massive stretch with an upside down dyno round the bulge!!!! Awesome, but I'm nowhere near good enough yet....British 6b??
Peakphil - 24/Sep/06
My God, the start to Live Evil is somewhat polished and perhaps undergraded at 5c
Peter Ogden - 09/Sep/06
Visited one evening in July 2006. There is a good fence running behind the main crag now, making for excellent belays. The pub is very funny about people parking outside; best stick to the lay bys. There was a fair bit of vegetation on the easier lines, but I enjoyed the visist and will be back to have a crack at Dead Good, on a an evening when I remember to pack my harness and boots....
Snorkers McPorkers - 28/Jul/06
Not a place to go when it is even vaguely wet, since it's situated in a steep wooded valley and even standing at the bottom in some places, can be challenging. The rock type also doesn't lend itself to climbing when damp and was a bit like trying to climb with skates on. The best place to park is in the last layby before you reach the pub as you can almost belay out of the car, which you might have to do on some routes as there is a lack anchor points on some parts at the top. However when dry the routes would be interesting as they are steep throughout their length but the rock look fragile in places, particularly at the bottom and probably explains the bolting on parts of the crag.
Andrew Primrose - 27/Jan/03
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