UKC

Rockfax Description
Absorbing climbing above good gear. Start at the overhanging right-facing corner. Climb the awkward corner to where it eases and pull out left to a ledge. Continue up to join the groove again then head leftwards to the lower break. Traverse right to a flake-line in the wall above. Head up the flake then make some thin moves up left to the upper break. Pull over the overhang above and finish up a narrow corner. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Varied and interesting climbing up the centre of the face, with cruxes of escalating difficulty. Squirm up the rather traditional groove until spat out leftwards onto a good flake. Bold and delicate moves above this lead to the continuation of the groove and SB break above. Swing right into the undercut flake, then move left and up or up and left to eventually reach the next break and steady pullover into the finishing groove.

Feedback

User Date Notes
John Kettle 20 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Replaced the ab tat and snaplink with a static rope and stainless ring provided by Cumbria Bolt Fund.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Replaced the ab tat and snaplink with a static rope and stainless ring provided by Cumbria Bolt Fund.
Misha 9 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Save a green cam for the crux. Not a great placement but seemed to hold. A green Totem might be better? Took sky hooks but didn’t think they were needed.
Show beta
βeta: Save a green cam for the crux. Not a great placement but seemed to hold. A green Totem might be better? Took sky hooks but didn’t think they were needed.
Misha 9 Sep Show βeta
βeta: In situ an tat and crab on the belay flake (taken from the dubious perched block just right).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In situ an tat and crab on the belay flake (taken from the dubious perched block just right).

Logged Ascents

67 users have logged this
11 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 15
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Mother Courage

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Pavey Ark)
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